Drop Links Fitting Front by Arctic

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Hi fellow R75 MG ZT owners with my MOT pending i decided to fit some new front drop links which i have had for quite a while now, the main reason was that the rubber boots started to perish but were still keeping out dust etc, but better to be safe than sorrybelow follows how i did the fitting.

Two day earlier i cut 7mm of the top thread of the new drop lins so i could get a spanner on when i fitted them on the 15/8/2014.



Dress the end of the thread after cutting.


First of all i jacked the car up and lowered it on to some axle stands, that way you can deal with both sides instead of one side at a time.




Remove both wheels


With both road wheels removed turn the steering on full lock to face you so you can work easier on the drop link nuts, mine were 15mm use a socket and an open ended spanner on the flat of the drop link.



Start with the bottom joint first


With the nut removed lever or tap the thread out of the anti roll bar end.


You can now deal with the top drop link nut, put the open spanner on the flat of the drop link and turn it should move as the bottom is not fitted in to the anti roll bar, once it as move a few turns you should be able to get a ring spanner over the top nut.

Keep turning the the drop link using the flat while holding the nut in place with the ring spanner and it should come free.


Now removed all you need to do is clean the areas that the new link will be fitted to.

Clean and add a little copper grease


You can now offer up the new drop link top first and make sure the nut is on straight not cross theaded tighten it up at least by 7mm so the thead is flush with the nut.

Fit the bottom of the link into the anti roll bar.

Now tighten up the top nut of the drop link to how tight you think it was before undoing then add a quarter turn.

Do the same with the bottom nut using a socket and a torque if you have one if not do the same as above.

Repeat the process on the opposite side of the car.
bottom nut first again levering it out after nut removed..

Then remove the top nut if the drop link will not turn or is turning with the nut you can grind down a spanners edge so it will fit into the recess of the top joint as below



This should get the link moving if you do not have a grinder try a wedge in the recess.



Add the new drop link as above and before.

fit the bottom


Job done double check everthing lower the car i will check again on the nuts in a couple of days.

The reason i decided to change the drop links rubber perishing.


Good luck Arctic. :thumbsup:

Posted 15 Aug 2014, 22:00 #1 

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Another useful post and pics Steve which will no doubt help give some owners the confidence to tackle another job themselves
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Planning is an unnatural process, much better to just get on with things, that way failure comes as a complete surprise instead of being preceeded by a period of worry and doubt

Posted 15 Aug 2014, 22:56 #2 

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I have found that although the top joint is easily "cracked" it tightens up as the nut has to travel over the rusty thread, sometimes to the point of being unable to turn it at all. I find it is far easier to take an angle grinder to the drop link just underneath the top fixing. Takes seconds ;)
Photobucket = Tossers


Posted 16 Aug 2014, 17:33 #3 

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Make sure you choose quality replacements too. A set I fitted corroded up internally within a couple of thousand miles, giving really horrible noises.

Posted 16 Aug 2014, 18:50 #4 

very good post on howto Steve what make of droplinks did you use?

Posted 18 Aug 2014, 17:10 #5 

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roughyed wrote:very good post on howto Steve what make of droplinks did you use?

Hi Mel I bought these ones bearing in mind I have had them now since 2012 as I bought four two for each of my cars, just in case and have only recently got round to using them, I did note however that the seller still as an 100% feedback after two years of me buying mine but time will tell cheers Arctic
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150298774167? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Posted 21 Aug 2014, 00:06 #6 

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I fitted a pair that looked identical last summer,they were from "Andrew Page" motor factors and were QH brand.Think they were £13 each.I don't know how they are doing will find out next MOT I guess :)

Posted 18 Jan 2016, 10:27 #7 

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If you have tyre protectors fitted, it is easier if you remove the one on the offside, as the top nut is blocked by the TP. It's only two bolts (8 and 10mm I believe and check which bolt came from which hole as 1 is a self tapper). There didn't appear to be play in my drop links (rubbers perished and dirt/water ingress) but the difference is amazing, with rattles and steering wheel vibration gone. I wondered if it was just imagination but her indoors drove the car and noticed the difference!
Break my bones and it says Rover through the middle!

Posted 17 Oct 2017, 16:48 #8