75ZT Community

The R75 and or the MGZT 1.8, 2.0, or diesel sometimes have a two wire 2 speed fan which fails, most of the time it will be the silver resistor that as failed once failed it will need changing for a Gold resistor.

This thread/post will hopefully help those whom wish to deal with this replacement themselves.

Once you have purchased the Gold resistor you will need to remove the front bumper to carry out this task, there are several threads on how to remove the front bumper please use one of those to help you remove the front bumper.

First job is to check that you have a silver resistor in place on your R75/MGZT do this by looking through the front grill at about 2.0 oclock Fig 1
1

Once you have established you have a two wire 2 speed fan with silver resistor remove the front bumper Fig 2
2

Now you have the front bumper removed unplug the fan from the car loom as the fan is permanent live Fig 3
3

Your nest step is to remove the crash bar 4 bolts and 1 nut each side 13mm Fig 4/5/6
4

5

6

Once you have all bolts and nuts removed take off the crash bar Fig 7
7

Lie the crash bar to one side out of the way Fig 8
8

The main reason for removing the crash bar is that is will give you more access to remove the silver resistor and fit the gold one, working through the largest gap in the fan blade Fig 9
9

Remove the two screws holding the fixing plate to the fan for the silver resistor Fig10
10

With the two screws removed pull the silver resistor through the fan blade Fig 11
11

Now you have the silver resistor through the fan blade cut the black wire as close to the resistor end as you can, giving your self a good length of wire Fig 12/13
12

13

You now need to strip back the wire ready for soldering or crimping the gold resistor to Fig 14
14

Hopefully you have wired the gold resistor already with a small tail to aid the fitting to the fan black wire, or you have purchased a gold resistor already fitted with the tail, you need to push these together weather you are soldering or crimping. Fig 15
15

The gold resistor I use at the meets or on members cars already have the wire tail fitted before and crimped so all I have to do is crimp the joint to the fan wire Fig 16
16

Make sure your crimping is good and tight and remembering to add a length of heat shrink onto the wire before crimping Fig 17
17

Once you are satisfied with your crimp or soldering heat shrink the joint Fig 18
18

Repeat this procedure for the other wire on the fan again making sure heat shrink is added before you cripm or solder Fig 19
19

Feed the gold resistor and wiring back through the fan blade fit the resistor to the fan using the screws you removed earlier, and cable tie the wiring to the fan supports to stop the wire from touching the condenser and fowling the fan blades when it is running. Fig 20
20

Now you need to test the fan refit the loom plugs in the wheel arch, if you are working on a diesel car ignition to II with all A/C off press the demist button, on a petrol car you will need the engine running,the fan should run continually switch off the demist button and retest a few times before refitting the crash bar and bumper, you have now completed fitting a gold resistor. Fig 21
21

Cheers Arctic

Another good right up Steve. Do you know of what the failure rates are, resistors against model year? Only I recall reading somewhere that later models had an uprated (75w) resistor factory fitted and that Xpart have an official policy for replacement of failures with an upgraded resistor, which I have a copy of. Reason I ask is that my 06 is fine at present (oh oh!) and the A/C is never off, now done 70k.

PS Do you now own a Freelander 1 diesel as well?

Gary M.

Borg Warner wrote:Another good right up Steve. Do you know of what the failure rates are, resistors against model year? Only I recall reading somewhere that later models had an uprated (75w) resistor factory fitted and that Xpart have an official policy for replacement of failures with an upgraded resistor, which I have a copy of. Reason I ask is that my 06 is fine at present (oh oh!) and the A/C is never off, now done 70k.

PS Do you now own a Freelander 1 diesel as well?

Gary M.

Hi Gary.
Most of the silver resistors I have seen failed were on average between 65,000 and 80,000 miles, working from that figure you are moving into the area of failure at 70k sorry to say.

I can not say 100% if the later models were given an uprated resistor or not.

I do have a FL 1 TD4 which I have been bringing up to good standard now for nearly 7 months slowly getting there, as I like to have parts working as they should.

new front and rear propshafts, new GKN VCU, front & rear brake discs and pads, handbrake cables, engine mount lower tie rod, rear diff mounts, new UJ mounts, under sealed, new sunroof, four winter wheels and tyres, new filters, manifold and EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve) cleaned, injector leak back connectors changed for brass ones, rear exhaust, front and rear light guards, I have got to stop this listing as it is frightening me Arctic

Arctic wrote:

Borg Warner wrote:Another good right up Steve. Do you know of what the failure rates are, resistors against model year? Only I recall reading somewhere that later models had an uprated (75w) resistor factory fitted and that Xpart have an official policy for replacement of failures with an upgraded resistor, which I have a copy of. Reason I ask is that my 06 is fine at present (oh oh!) and the A/C is never off, now done 70k.

PS Do you now own a Freelander 1 diesel as well?

Gary M.

Hi Gary.
Most of the silver resistors I have seen failed were on average between 65,000 and 80,000 miles, working from that figure you are moving into the area of failure at 70k sorry to say.

I can not say 100% if the later models were given an uprated resistor or not.

I do have a FL 1 TD4 which I have been bringing up to good standard now for nearly 7 months slowly getting there, as I like to have parts working as they should.

new front and rear propshafts, new GKN VCU, front & rear brake discs and pads, handbrake cables, engine mount lower tie rod, rear diff mounts, new UJ mounts, under sealed, new sunroof, for winter wheels and tyres, new filters, manifold and EGR cleaned, injector leak back connectors changed for brass ones, rear exhaust, front and rear light guards, I have got to stop this listing as it is frightening me Arctic

Hiya Steve

Thought I'd clocked you on LandyZone(?). Brave with the sunroof mate I make sure mine is used on a regular basis and is well greased - so far so good. What were your symptom with the engine mount lower tie rod, clunking occasionally on down shifts as it comes to a stop?

Will keep my eye on the fan. Naturally.

Take care.

Gary M.

Hi Gary.
Lower engine tie mount was a bit sloppy giving some vibration and slight clunking, changed it as all was/is well.

Auto one I think is same as manual
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280679755182? ... EBIDX%3AIT

The centres is also the same as the top upper tie rod I managed to find a new cheap one as below, cost me £18.00 so just used my original mount and the centre out of this one below worked a treat.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FR ... 3367de1ab0