Big Day Fitting of the 2 speed fan by Arctic (Page 1 of 2)


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Arctic
(Trader)
Hi
Over this weekend i am going to try fitting the 2 speed fan once removed i will have to do a bit of work on soldering and the like hope you can look in on me and help out with advise should i need it if anyone as the time ;)and it does not rain to much link below to where i am at the moment have added some new pics and videos.
fan-resistor-upgrade-t3535-60.html

Posted 18 Jun 2011, 01:05 #1 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Mornning all just about to start the replacing of the fan first bumper off, please enter any advise you can give or instructions throughout the day as i will no doubt be keep poping on and of the forum, cheers Arctic.

Posted 18 Jun 2011, 10:07 #2 

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takestock
You may find you have to elongate the top slot you have cut out for the aircon pipes on the fan shroud. ;) dont miss the two bolts at the bottom of the shroud ;)

A blanket on the ground across the front is always good to stop any damage to the bumper when it comes off, be brave when you tug the sides they can be stiff.

If you have to disconnect the wiring to the front bumper dont forget the external sensor will read -30 for some time before it slowly returns to normal.

VERY IMPORTANT
Make sure you reconnect the bonnet cable before you close the bonnet :)

leave the headlights connected to the slam panel when you remove it, saves any realignment.
Photobucket = Tossers

Dave....

Posted 18 Jun 2011, 11:50 #3 

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MrB
Best of luck with it.

Have been there and done it, just take your time and double check everything as you go along.

As Daves says make sure to reconnect bonnet cables before closing it and don't over-tighten the catches like I did.....
Chris
Member No. 143
Mods so far: LED sidelights, interior lights and number plate lamps, Rover Xenon Headlights, Kenlowe Fan, Synergy 2 and EGR Bypass

Posted 18 Jun 2011, 17:59 #4 

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JohnDotCom
When the bumper is off take the time to clean out washer bottle to, Often get gunked up.
John

"My lovely car now sold onto a very happy new owner.
I still love this marque and I will still be around, preferred selling to breaking, as a great runner and performer"

Posted 18 Jun 2011, 19:16 #5 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Hi all
Thanks for the tips and good lucks but bad news it as rained here all day :-x so took the chance to solder the wire to the resistor ready for tomorrow i hope so dissapointed & deflated,i still have to sort out which wires go where once i get my control box off and the loom.
Image1

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The joints have to be soldered as crimping alone in no good makes for a loose fix very unstable
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Image5
What have the rest of you fixed the resistor to the fan with self tappers or very small bolt & Nuts
Image6

Posted 18 Jun 2011, 21:58 #6 

Last edited by Arctic on 18 Jun 2011, 22:04, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
takestock wrote:You may find you have to elongate the top slot you have cut out for the aircon pipes on the fan shroud. ;) dont miss the two bolts at the bottom of the shroud ;)

A blanket on the ground across the front is always good to stop any damage to the bumper when it comes off, be brave when you tug the sides they can be stiff.

If you have to disconnect the wiring to the front bumper dont forget the external sensor will read -30 for some time before it slowly returns to normal.

VERY IMPORTANT
Make sure you reconnect the bonnet cable before you close the bonnet :)

leave the headlights connected to the slam panel when you remove it, saves any realignment.


Hi Dave i thought i ad cut enough out for the fan to fit :confused: the two bolts at the bottom of the shroud as in dont miss them or cut them off :-D :confused:

Posted 18 Jun 2011, 22:02 #7 

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takestock
From memory the top air con pipe travels downward, and still catches you will see when you have the bumper off.
"Don't miss them" some people do not realise they are there and try to wrench the housing off without undoing them :)
Photobucket = Tossers

Dave....

Posted 19 Jun 2011, 07:02 #8 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Morning and afternoon dave, yes noticed the air con pipe still catching had to cut the cowling some more to remove, and i also got the small bolts at the bottom i am doing the job while the car is on the ramps save to much bending ;) :)

I still need to know where all the wires go have added these photos hoping someone will look in while i am having a break for coffee and tidying up around the car, took loom off and change some of the wires need to know about the litte gray wire?
Image1

Image2

Image3

Two brown wires going into one in the loom where do i connect these to with regatds to the fan wires ?
Image4

Again do i have to join the grey wire to the blue and red wire?
Image5

Posted 19 Jun 2011, 14:47 #9 

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Duncan
Bear in mind, the Rover circuit diagrams I have are not a lot of help in me working this through with you. As far as I can work out, from how your replacement box was wired, and the other info you've quoted, it's like this:

The thin wires stay as they are, connected to the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) in the same way. If you look at the before and after on the Kenlow fit, they don't move.

The thick brown wire in the loom, that splits in two and goes into the control box. This will be the live feed, and now connects directly to the fan: brown to brown. It doesn't go into the box anymore. Is there another thick brown that goes to your old fan? I ask this as the Rover diagrams show two, but now I see the inside of your box, it isn't wired like they say and couldn't work on low speed without a third brown wire! If you do have this extra brown one I need to think about which of the browns need to be used.

The grey and red wires from the fan go into the box, and connect up like they did on the old box. The purple is not needed anymore.

The two thick black wires that were cut on the old box, need to connect to earth. One of these is already there, connected to the middle relay on your original box. The brown on the bigger relay, needs to be replaced with a thick black, and joined to this existing thick black.

I hope that helps explain it, but without coming and looking, and putting a meter on things, I'm still a bit in the dark. This is why my information has been a bit duff from the start, if I can't trust what the diagrams say, only actually seeing it will make it 100% clear.
Image

Posted 19 Jun 2011, 16:05 #10 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Cheers Duncan i am still stuck i have got to this so far. please click link. i think i may agve to give up today ?
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s ... post744516

See jules as joined his grey little wire to the blue and red in this pic below,
Originally Posted by Jules
Here you go Steven knew I had the pic.
You can see where all the wires go.

If you're using your old 3 speed loom into the 2 speed box, the 2 brown positives need to become 2 x -Negs.

Grey circuit goes via resistor
Red circuit effectively shorts out the resistor and hence goes to MOTOR BLACK


Easiest way to achieve that is cut thick black and browns BEFORE they split near the plug ends and swap them over.

Image

Posted 19 Jun 2011, 17:29 #11 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Hi Duncan & fellow members i am still stuck with this wiring, so i decided to try this just hope its ok but have given up trying to get car all back together today now as am losing light and it's started to spit rain.

Image1

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The top pic is of my old relys out of my 3 speed i just placed the wires back as they were in the new one 2 speed, the bottom pic is of how i am now using my loom as the one above came with a loom and the little wires cut back to close ? why i dont know.

Image4

Note in this pic 5 black and gray where they should be, all the little wires where they should be,purple will be cut of as it is not used now,the two brown which one will be no good the other i have joined to the black so now making the other brown a black as in control box above.
Image5

as you can see black as become brown in the box, in effect giving me my tow black as above, grey goes to the resistor red goes to the resistor.
Image6

In this pic 7 the other main brown goes to the red which in turn goes to the motor. but i am still not sure if this is right, also do i put little grey with the blue and red little wire.
Image7

Took me about an hour to get bumper of etc since then i have be stuck with this wiring and it is now 8.00pm started at 12.00pm what a night mare but am hoping it will be ok in the end, car is still in bits.

Posted 19 Jun 2011, 19:13 #12 

Last edited by Arctic on 07 Sep 2011, 01:02, edited 3 times in total.

User avatar
takestock
having read this three times now I am reasonably confident you have the wiring correct :)

just to summerise with out being too bogged down:

From the plug at the end of the harness you will have 2 thick wires, a black and a brown.

The brown (live) should go straight to the motor live.

The black (neg) should split in to two and each wire after the split should go to one of the relays.

From the other connector on each relay there should be a wire on each spade and these should go to the neg from the motor and the neg from the resistor. The larger relay going to the resistor.

There is no real need to alter the smaller wires on the relays.

hope that helps :)
Photobucket = Tossers

Dave....

Posted 19 Jun 2011, 19:31 #13 

Last edited by takestock on 19 Jun 2011, 21:39, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Duncan
Yes, I agree with Dave.

The thin wires: if there was a need to join them, then the box you bought would have been done that way too, but it wasn't. If Jules says you need to, he must have his reasons, but I don't know those reasons. I can only go on what you have inside the new box you bought.

The rest of it looks OK, based on what you've said and I've read.
Image

Posted 19 Jun 2011, 20:33 #14 

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takestock
Hi Duncan,

The reason for splicing the two small wires as i see it will be to receive any high speed fan signal and send it to the higher of the two remaining speeds. Just dont want to confuse artic.
Photobucket = Tossers

Dave....

Posted 19 Jun 2011, 21:42 #15 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Hi Dave/Duncon & fellow members.
First of all i must say thanks for all the help it is most appreciated, second if the wiring turns out to be right fingers crossed even though it as taken me/us all day to sort out it is in a way satisfying, now just to recap again with pics as i think they can explain some what better than just words well for me anyway :em: :)

Right here we go from the clip in plug end of the loom through to the control box, then onto the motor.

Pic 1 shows the two plug ends with one thick black wire & a thin grey wire, and one with a thick brown wire & the thin yellow/blue & red wires,
Image1

Pic 2 shows the spade connectors inside the plugs,the left one holds the thick black and the thin grey wires the right one holds the thick brown and the thin yellow/blue&red wires.
Image2

pic 3 shows the wires once i have peeled back the black protective sheath single thick brown spliting into two brown,& one thick black spliting into two black wires,
Image3

Pic 4 show where the wires go with regards to my none working 3 speed brush motor.
Image4

Pic 5 shows the control box of the 2 speed i am using but with my own loom because this control box came with the wires cut close and no loom, note the date 03/07/02 for reference later to mine which is dated 11/02/02.
Image5

Pics 6/7 shows after i have transfered my wires from my loom to the 2 speed control box (03/02/02) from my 3 speed box (11/02/02
Image6
Note the date of my 3 speed box above the 2 speed box below date in pic 7, i still have to cut the purple which will not be in use,also i will be using the the brown left and nearest to the red as my other black later on in this post it will have black tape round it,
Image7

pic 8 back to the wires that spilt and how i will join them to the control box then onto the motor along with the other colours thick gray and thick red, I have cut the two brown wires one will go to the red which goes to the motor, the other will join up to one of the two blacks which will give me my two blacks in the control box,
Image8

pic 9 having cut the two brown wires and one of the black wires i joined the brown wire coming from the control box nearest to the red to the black wire i cut, making this in effect my other black wire in the control box,the other brown wire i joined to the red wire which goes direct to the fan motor. The yellow connections are temporary just incase i have got it wrong once i know they are right i will shrink wrap them, cutting out the split first,
Image9

pics 10 & 11 show how my control box is now,top left black connected to second relay along with samll black wire and the thick grey wire. Purple cut off as not in use now,thick red wire joined to the large relay along with the thick brown wire which in turn is my other black as it is joined to the black wire which goes to the plug.
Image10

pic 11 shows the comparison to the 2 speed as it was before i used my loom, both the same if you took away the purple, and the spare brown which still needs to be cut once i know it is right.
Image11

Right i have this then Red splits into two black wires, one goes to the motor,the other goes to the resistor,Gray goes to the resistor,brown from the plug goes to the red on the motor,black from the plug goes to the control box relays left to the small relay at top and back of the box, right to the large relay along with the red wire. all the small wires stay as they are.
Image12

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pic 14/15/16 resistor fitted to the cowling i will be relocating the control box next to the FBH (Fuel burning heater.) in engine compartment.
Image14

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pic 17 i have used the old black control box to fill the hole left because i am relocating the new control box, i might yet cut up some plastic to seal it properly before i fit it will see if i have time,
Image17

Now if you would like to give the :thumbsup: to how it is wired and think it is 100% ok to fit please do so then i can put my susie back together, i thank you all for your help and hope the pics will help other members whom decide to do this mod. will have some question on these control boxes but that will be another thread.
Cheers Arctic
PS hope someone looks in before 11.00am today :hail: :)

Posted 19 Jun 2011, 22:31 #16 

Last edited by Arctic on 20 Jun 2011, 10:11, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Duncan
Right, I think I missed picture 4 previously. It now makes much more sense, as I can see how it would work without the extra brown I was asking about.

From what I've seen, it looks to be wired up fine. But please remember I've not actually done one of these, and I'm working from diagrams that are wrong! However from a circuit point of view, everything makes sense and should work.
Image

Posted 20 Jun 2011, 07:06 #17 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Duncan wrote:Right, I think I missed picture 4 previously. It now makes much more sense, as I can see how it would work without the extra brown I was asking about.

From what I've seen, it looks to be wired up fine. But please remember I've not actually done one of these, and I'm working from diagrams that are wrong! However from a circuit point of view, everything makes sense and should work.


Hi Duncan,
What is the worst could happen then if i fit this fan and the wiring is wrong can fry the ECU (Engine Control Unit) etc or melt any wiring along the way. :confused: all that work yesterday and i am no wiser :cry: :gmc: plus the car is all in bits is it ok to start the car with out the fan on not drive it just move it say up the ramps

Posted 20 Jun 2011, 10:15 #18 


PaulT
A number of 3 speed equipped cars do not have the low speed functioning.

In addition, I have a Kenlowe fitted to mine and I only knew there was a problem with it when I was travelling down to SW France with the a/c on in traffic (fine at motorway speeds) and it was making strange noises. Then a subsequent rising of temperature when stuck in friday rush hour traffic on the periphique around Toulouse.

Back in the UK I checked out the fan and it was dead on both speeds.

So, under normal circumstances you can run the car without the fan.
Paul

That apart Mrs Lincoln, did you enjoy the play

Image

Posted 20 Jun 2011, 11:01 #19 

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Arctic
(Trader)
PaulT wrote:A number of 3 speed equipped cars do not have the low speed functioning.

In addition, I have a Kenlowe fitted to mine and I only knew there was a problem with it when I was travelling down to SW France with the a/c on in traffic (fine at motorway speeds) and it was making strange noises. Then a subsequent rising of temperature when stuck in friday rush hour traffic on the periphique around Toulouse.

Back in the UK I checked out the fan and it was dead on both speeds.

So, under normal circumstances you can run the car without the fan.


Hi Paul cheers for that have now got the car on the ramps just need to make sure this wiring in 100% meanwhile i will clean out the washer bottle and any other things i can do while i have the bumper off. Arctic

Posted 20 Jun 2011, 11:26 #20 

Last edited by Arctic on 20 Jun 2011, 17:12, edited 1 time in total.


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