75ZT Community

But surely they wash their cars sometimes?

Think Duncan may also referring to my problem that was caused by use of a pressure washer to clean and leaked inside the car electrics.

phenonix wrote:
and 6 is 0.00, dead

No. It should be permanent 12 volts. You told me it was there you fibber

Like Paul says, that one (orange Green, 6) should be 12v even with the ignition off. So start by checking the fuse. Fuse 34 on the later hard wired fusebox, fuse 4 on earlier cars with the grey fusebox.

OK Joe,

As Duncan isn't here at the moment.

We now know your permanent 12 volts is missing from C0081 pin 6 from the results you published above.

I'm certain that it is derived from fuse 4 in the footwell fuse-box so you might as well re check the fuse mate

If not then the next logical place is the door hinge plug break. To get to the appropriate contact you'd be better off taking the door off.

If you want, then apply 12 volts direct from the battery to pin 6 before you start tracing the wire back and see if it clears your fault.

EDIT Yes he is - he turned up while I was writing this post

raistlin wrote:

phenonix wrote:
and 6 is 0.00, dead

No. It should be permanent 12 volts. You told me it was there you fibber

This is the bit that was confusing me, left and right, first pin last pin, all i saw was 12v power and assumed there was only 1 power, finally figuring out rave and got it right

raistlin wrote:OK Joe,

As Duncan isn't here at the moment.

We now know your permanent 12 volts is missing from C0081 pin 6 from the results you published above.

I'm certain that it is derived from fuse 4 in the footwell fuse-box so you might as well re check the fuse mate

If not then the next logical place is the door hinge plug break. To get to the appropriate contact you'd be better off taking the door off.

If you want, then apply 12 volts direct from the battery to pin 6 before you start tracing the wire back and see if it clears your fault.

EDIT Yes he is - he turned up while I was writing this post

I knew i was going to have to do that as you can saw from my other thread, i have a sneaking suspicion that when i threaded the wires through that plug i may have dislodged or broken something
I'll get into that next.

That's a good point Joe. John's similar fault only appeared after we had disturbed the plug break at the door hinge.

that makes me feel MUCH betrer, so it happens to the best of us

What i'm to understand next is with the powerfold switchpack why does it not work when i turn the ignition on as it is still getting 12v then.

phenonix wrote:What i'm to understand next is with the powerfold switchpack why does it not work when i turn the ignition on as it is still getting 12v then.

The 12 volts which make the switchpack functions work is an ignition controlled supply Joe so if the ignition is on it all works. The permanent 12 volt supply is used to power the timer which stimulates the switchpack circuitry for the time period just after the ignition is switched off. The powerfold circuit needs the permanent 12 volts to stimulate the circuitry.

Hope that makes sense

It actually does!

To expand on Pauls explanation.

The ignition fed bits of the circuitry do exactly what he says. In fact you can hear the relay clicking (or at least it did on JDCs car). But that relay switches power to the motors, that it takes from that orange / green permanent feed.

It does that, so that if you press the fold button, then switch the ignition off, the mirrors will keep moving and not stop halfway, which they would if the power to the motors was taken from the ignition feeds.

i did hear a click from the black larger block on the switchpack when i connected it, was that the relay?

phenonix wrote:i did hear a click from the black larger block on the switchpack when i connected it, was that the relay?

Yes, it would be Joe.

Right, got some spare time so i tackled this problem
Got the door off and had a look at the connection, and there it was the pin for Orange/Green was not there, corroded away
I tried to repair it as i did not have the replacement pins but the pin i created was not strong enough, was not rigid enough.
So... I bypassed the connector and connected the Orange/Green.
Got in the car tried it ...nothing!
then i remembered i had made two links for the Green/Orange, linked that and..Nothing!
then i realised i had the door open, closed the door tried it..it worked!!
Powerfolds work also, but i have not had time for your mod Paul, i.e connecting to the BCU (Body Control Unit)
Geez! What a job!
But seriously if i had left it to a garage to fix (find the problem) they would have charged an arm and a leg
So..Thanks a a lot Paul and Duncan!

so it looks like i had the same problem as JDC, water getting into that connector

p.s.
I remember i always had this re-occuring problem of my battery going dead, i noticed always when it rained, i was told it was just a co-incidence
but..
Does anyone think that somehow when it rained it got to this connector and drained my battery(short)?

and then when the connector pin broke (above problem) that it stopped shorting? as in no more drained battery
The reason i ask is my garage said it was my starting motor and charged me for a new one!
( i got a brand new but only charged second hand price, suppliers mistake)

Pleased you got to the bottom of it Joe

If you want some of the proper contacts, I can send you some, but without the correct crimping tool, they probably won't fit in the connector as they should.

Cannot believe it Paul, i have just remembered i still have the pins you gave me for the short loom!
(i used your pins for the drivers door, but the passengers were ok)
So i should have used that!!
They are the same size aren't they? i.e. the switchpack connector pins and the big connector in the door.

phenonix wrote:Cannot believe it Paul, i have just remembered i still have the pins you gave me for the short loom!
(i used your pins for the drivers door, but the passengers were ok)
So i should have used that!!
They are the same size aren't they? i.e. the switchpack connector pins and the big connector in the door.

Yes, but it depends whether the plugs, sockets or both are corroded.

I have plenty of both if you want some Joe.

Thanks, if i could have a couple of both please, if the pin was gone high chance the socket may go too, i'll pm my address again to you and payment to either yourself of charity like previously

No payment required Joe but do PM your address details