75ZT Community

Hi guys me again ,Problem :- a couple of days ago I noticed a clicking noise when I turned the power steering, the more I turned it, the louder the clicking, I thought to myself I'd have a look at it at the weekend, as its dark when I go to work, and dark when I come home, so tonight when I was leaving work, I started my car , and there was a clunk, my battery light came on, and my power sterring was'nt working, I liften my bonnet and my fan belt had come off,,, not snapped, but come off the pulley's, even I know they dont come off on their own, so,,, has anyone else had this problem ? anyone know what might be wrong ? anyone know how to put the bloody thing back on, because there do'snt look like theres a lot of room down there , should I replace the belt ? hasd the power steering pump gone ? where is the filler for the oil for the power steering? cant afford to put it into a garage, have got to sort it myself, any advice or tips are gladly welcomed, thank you.

There are two belts. Presumably its the long belt not the little one on the aircon. Sometimes the crank pulley fails, theres a bit of rubber between inside and outside. I guess if it goes really bad the belt could then come off but not sure. The power steering fluid reservoir is under the bonnet. Hopefully someone can post a photo, but I doubt thats the root cause.

The tensioner is spring loaded, you need a long spanner to turn it while refitting the belt. But before you do, you need to find out why it came off. I've seen one belt that had partly split but not snapped. It could also be an idler or the tensioner.

When the pulley starts to go it does make a noise which then gets even louder. Do think that with the way that it is constructed there would be sufficient movement to allow the belt to come off. Suppose it could also be the tensioner.

I would replace the belt. Think it is a thin 24mm spanner you need for the tensioner. To get the new belt in you will probably have to turn it slightly on its edge to get it in.

If it is the pulley the manual states remove the starter motor and jam the starter ring. Had to replace mine earlier this year. The pulley has a couple of cut outs in it and I used an old pipe wrench with one end supported on an axle stand. The bolt is a normal thread. However, mine was so tight that even with a socket, bar and a piece of pipe for even more leverage the bar bent so much that if I had put more torque on the bar would have snapped. The air wrench also did nothing. Put the old a/c belt on and fitted a new 'other' belt and drove it to a garage where they managed to undo the bolt, which they said was extremely tight (already knew that and was expecting the bolt to shear) and fitted the new pulley and new a/c belt. This was in France and the cost was 40 euros (£28). I then drove it home and refitted the wheel liner.

Perhaps some pulley bolts come undone easier and perhaps Hans when he assembled the engine thought 'let's see if you can undo this' as he overtightened the bolt.

If I was doing the job again then if the bolt seemed it did not want to come undone then I would take it to a garage where they hopefully have some heavier duty tools to do the job to just have the pulley changed. The other option would be the purchase of a 3/4" or 1" socket and bar.

Duncan wrote:There are two belts. Presumably its the long belt not the little one on the aircon. Sometimes the crank pulley fails, theres a bit of rubber between inside and outside. I guess if it goes really bad the belt could then come off but not sure. The power steering fluid reservoir is under the bonnet. Hopefully someone can post a photo, but I doubt thats the root cause.

The tensioner is spring loaded, you need a long spanner to turn it while refitting the belt. But before you do,
you need to find out why it came off. I've seen one belt that had partly split but not snapped. It could also be an idler or the tensioner.

As above.
You must first finds the reason why the belt as failed, it could also be the water pump pulley, you will need a 24mm aviation spanner or join two ring spanners together.






You may also find the compressor belts is worse for wear and needs changing, buy only good quality belts Contitech 5PK 2030 for the long belt, andi think it is 875 short belt.

22mm ring spanner for the small tensioner mark before adjusting.


add the small belt first if changing note the mark for adjustment in red felt pen




Fit the large belt by dropping it through from the top, putting it on the power steering pump, and water pump.




Then serpentine round the other pulleys



This was what the small belt looked like when I changed mine as I always do when buying another car par for the cause,


Large belt is as above

PaulT wrote:When the pulley starts to go it does make a noise which then gets even louder. Do think that with the way that it is constructed there would be sufficient movement to allow the belt to come off. Suppose it could also be the tensioner.

I would replace the belt. Think it is a thin 24mm spanner you need for the tensioner. To get the new belt in you will probably have to turn it slightly on its edge to get it in.

If it is the pulley the manual states remove the starter motor and jam the starter ring. Had to replace mine earlier this year. The pulley has a couple of cut outs in it and I used an old pipe wrench with one end supported on an axle stand. The bolt is a normal thread. However, mine was so tight that even with a socket, bar and a piece of pipe for even more leverage the bar bent so much that if I had put more torque on the bar would have snapped. The air wrench also did nothing. Put the old a/c belt on and fitted a new 'other' belt and drove it to a garage where they managed to undo the bolt, which they said was extremely tight (already knew that and was expecting the bolt to shear) and fitted the new pulley and new a/c belt. This was in France and the cost was 40 euros (£28). I then drove it home and refitted the wheel liner.

Perhaps some pulley bolts come undone easier and perhaps Hans when he assembled the engine thought 'let's see if you can undo this' as he overtightened the bolt.

If I was doing the job again then if the bolt seemed it did not want to come undone then I would take it to a
garage where they hopefully have some heavier duty tools to do the job to just have the pulley changed. The
other option would be the purchase of a 3/4" or 1" socket and bar.

HI Paul
There is a special tool for the job and they cost about £150


Also if it is the pulley only replace it with a corteco one other are waste a time and money in my opinion.

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/crankshaft- ... -4522.html

My replacement was a Corteco - from Rimmers, although they do not state make. The dearest was the official MG Rover unit and then about half the price the one I bought (listed as from an OEM supplier) and then their cheepy at about a quarter of the price of the MG Rover one.

do not really see how the official £150 tool would be more beneficial.

Thank you all very much guys, went into work this morning to check out the car, it was the crankshaft pulley that was the problem, the rubber had perished, got a new pulley from europarts, but could'nt get the old one off, made the mistake of thinking that because the pulley rotates clockwise, then the bolt must unscrew clockwise, It was'nt until I watched a few vids on youtube that I realised my mistake, but now could'nt undo it anti clockwise, I have borrowed a snap on impact wrench, hope to get it done tomorrow, thanks again for the photo's and the help, I'll let you know how I get on.

PaulT wrote:
do not really see how the official £150 tool would be more beneficial.

HI Paul.
It makes a lot of difference when you need to keep the pulley crank shaft from moving, when the bolt which is so hard to undo I would not fancy chancing on just a screw driver or pin in the fly wheel, which could get damaged.

Dan good luck with getting the old crank off and please remember the new pulley should be torqued in increments, 100Nm +60 + 60 +30 and use a new bolt if you can.

This was a pulley sold by a Trader on the OC German made BGA and it only lasted 800 miles, that is one of the reason I state use only Corteco.


You can see from the pics below how the tool would be of benefit when doing this job.

Hi Paul Hope you have better look than Me, mine went last week. I knew that I would not be able to do it so i asked the garage I go to to replace it along with a new tensioner and belt.. they broke one spanner a socket spanner and bent a steel tube they used. They ended up paying a special spanner,and they said they will never do another one if they can help it. The one fitted was a Corteco one and i got the tensioner from Rimmer bros.

Hop it go well for you and you get it sorted.
Les

What should a garage charge to replace the pulley,parts and labour?

Mike

Rover418275 wrote:What should a garage charge to replace the pulley,parts and labour?

Mike

Mike
I would source the parts yourself and get the garage to do the job which should cost about £50 no more really but again depends where you go ?

Mine went a year ago, had the pulley replaced and belts done at the same time, charged £300.

Depends on the labour charge and how much 'fun' they have. Supplying your own parts also means that they will have nothing to do with it if something happens afterwards.