Some Help Required by MrB (Page 2 of 2)

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MrB
Didn't get much chance to have a look at it yesterday but am off work today ill so took the opportunity to just have a quick look around.

Off Side Engine Mounting definitely split - Rimmers have KKB101923 for £84.87 icl VAT and the rear of the engine one KKH101402 for £81.58 - anyone know of anywhere else I can get these - especially for a little less as this car is looking a bit of a money pit already.

No fan operation with screen demist on - no click from aircon either - does this mean the fan has gone or that it wouldn't even spin it if outside temp is -30?

Think wobble may be the engine mountings.

Would be grateful if people could check my wanted listing to see if they have any of the bits I need here http://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=516

Thanks all

Chris
Chris
Member No. 143
Mods so far: LED sidelights, interior lights and number plate lamps, Rover Xenon Headlights, Kenlowe Fan, Synergy 2 and EGR Bypass

Posted 14 Jun 2010, 10:32 #21 

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JohnDotCom
First check the fuse box to ensure the fuse hasn't blown.

If you have a two speed fan then could well be just the resistor blown available form member Jules.
To check have a look through front grille and at around the two o'clock position will be a resistor quite a large size.
If there isn't one then you most probably have a three speed which would require a new fan motor again available through Jules.
Some have done the brushes etc but they don't seem to last much longer once gone.

Other reasons for No Air Con are lack of charge in the system or possibly compressor Knacked.

You could try a motor factor re the mountings to see if made by a third party,
but if OEM, unless seen on EBay, they won't be any cheaper generally than Rimmers for OEM.
John

"My lovely car now sold onto a very happy new owner.
I still love this marque and I will still be around, preferred selling to breaking, as a great runner and performer"

Posted 14 Jun 2010, 12:31 #22 

User avatar
MrB
Cheers JDC

Will probably get them ordered then

Just a quick question, not particularly related to above but do all 75's and ZT's have wear sensors in the breke pads? I noticed all part numbers seemed to be the same for all but the V8.
Chris
Member No. 143
Mods so far: LED sidelights, interior lights and number plate lamps, Rover Xenon Headlights, Kenlowe Fan, Synergy 2 and EGR Bypass

Posted 14 Jun 2010, 13:33 #23 

User avatar
JohnDotCom
Yes this is read just off of one wheel on front and one wheel on rear.
the sensor leads are a optional extra but generally best to change them as they often get damaged on removal.
John

"My lovely car now sold onto a very happy new owner.
I still love this marque and I will still be around, preferred selling to breaking, as a great runner and performer"

Posted 14 Jun 2010, 14:29 #24 

User avatar
MrB
Thought I would give an update from Russ' visit last night.

New IPK (Instrument pack (IPK from the German)) fitted - bad news mileage much higher than expected 170K, was expecting 110K - 140K, had 70K on at MOT 2007. :mad1:

FBH (Fuel burning heater.) not firing - will check glowplug and have a look at combustion chamber.

Cooling fan not working on any speed - suspect Earth bush gone - could hear all 3 relays click.

O/S/F engine mount still in place - this is an absolute pig - please see my other thread regarding this as any ideas how to get it out would be gratefully received - this is now out I will add pics to the thread to help anyone else needing to replace this

http://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=666
Chris
Member No. 143
Mods so far: LED sidelights, interior lights and number plate lamps, Rover Xenon Headlights, Kenlowe Fan, Synergy 2 and EGR Bypass

Posted 19 Jun 2010, 06:10 #25 


HarryM1BYT
The clutch master cylinder is tiny and up above the pedal, so you need to remove the panel to get to it - quite awkward to do. You need to be able to top that up as a first problem to solve, before you attempt to bleed it. Remving the top, you should find a diaphram inside, which takes up a lot of the space in the cylinder - some cut it down, so it can still seal, others replace it with an O ring. That mod gains a bit of capacity to get more DOT 4 into it.

One metre of narrow plastic tube, with some wire pushed inside and the barrel of a syringe makes it a bit easier to top up. Bend the pipe end plus wire to hook onto the lip of the cylinder, lots of newspaper on the floor to catch the spills, then pour the DOT 4 in until it starts to overflow. The bleed nipple is on the end of a pipe on top of the gearbox - there is a second identical pipe from the master cylinder and both enter the top of the gear box though the same bush - just to help you identify it. During bleeding, the pedal will go to the floor and be reluctant to return, so it may need the help of your toe to lift it.

The clutch is heavy and needs to be pressed down some way before it releases - or at least that is how mine is.

Posted 22 Jun 2010, 22:33 #26 

User avatar
MrB
Thanks for that.

I have located the bleed nipple and am hoping to get this done 1 evening this week. Probably not tonight.

Can't believe how awkward they have made this task.

Have sorted the parking sensors problem - it was the sounder. How well they work is intermitent so I think will have to take the rear bumper off and take a look at the wiring.
Chris
Member No. 143
Mods so far: LED sidelights, interior lights and number plate lamps, Rover Xenon Headlights, Kenlowe Fan, Synergy 2 and EGR Bypass

Posted 23 Jun 2010, 08:13 #27 


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