New On Here by garethw

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garethw
Hi Everyone this is my first post....

I recently bought a 75 CDT 02 Tourer with 118 k on the clock as a bit of a project...so far so good it had already had before I bought it a new MOT, 4 new tyres,alternator,starter motor and battery. the bodywork isn't the best part of the car but ive managed to source a new wing to replace the damaged one on there pretty cheaply and the rest is really just time and effort cutting the paint back.

What I thought was a crankshaft pully de-laminating turned out to be the auxillary belt tensioner having worked loose allowing the belt to basically just flap about so that was a result.
Ive ordered service items ready to fit on the weekend and I have a few questions....

The oil sump plug looks to be just about accessable without axel stands is this possible?
Does the filter housing undo anti-clockwise?
Would 10/40w semi synthetic castrol GTX be OK as I have some from my last car and how much?
Is the fuel filter self priming or is it better to fill the new filter with derv before refitting?

And lastly the clutch is heavy although there's no excessive travel or shudder...is this just how they are?

Thanks alot

Gareth

Posted 04 May 2015, 17:07 #1 

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Mick
(Site Admin)
This should help with some of your questions
oil-change-r75-mgzt-diesel-t8627.html

Posted 04 May 2015, 17:42 #2 

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Trebor
The clutch on the diesel is notoriously heavy and don't worry the muscles in your right leg will soon be like an Olympic athlete.

Re the oil draining if you have an under tray that will need to come off and awkward to get at all the fastenings without raising the car, make sure when you change the filter that no oil spills down into the alternator use a cloth to stop this happening.

The excellent how to above from Steve says it all re the oil change , you will need at least 6 litres with a filter change, and 10W/40 or 15W/40 is fine
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Posted 04 May 2015, 17:45 #3 

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raistlin
As the oil filter is accessible from the top of the engine, have you considered using a vacuum oil extractor? You can change oil and filter without having to get under the car. Just a thought.
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

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Posted 04 May 2015, 18:03 #4 


garethw
Hi Paul
Thanks for that, there's no slam panel in place, I can get my hand on the drain bolt and as long as the bolts not too tight I should be fine. In relation to the fuel filter is it simply a case of disconnecting everything, fitting new, priming and away you go?

Posted 04 May 2015, 19:22 #5 


garethw
I'm also a bit old fashioned and il just drop the oil lol

Posted 04 May 2015, 19:26 #6 

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raistlin
garethw wrote: In relation to the fuel filter is it simply a case of disconnecting everything, fitting new, priming and away you go?


More or less, yes. The filter unscrews from the head. I tend to fill the new filter with some diesel before fitting so as to reduce the priming time, but it doesn't take long anyway :)
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

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Posted 04 May 2015, 19:38 #7 


PaulT
The vacuum oil extraction is the way to go, the one I have takes 7 litres, the 75 CDT takes 6.5 litres if fully drained.

A lot cleaner and easier than sticking a container underneath.

And yes, rags etc under the filter to stop oil dropping on to the alternator commutator. Get a 36mm socket to remove the filter.

As for the clutch heavy, heavy, heavy. Cold sweat time if caught in a traffic jam.
Paul

That apart Mrs Lincoln, did you enjoy the play

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Posted 04 May 2015, 20:29 #8 


garethw
Hi Paul
Cheers for that in the clutch, I had visions of a change sooner rather than later.
I agree with the vacuum method I'll put one on my Xmas list :0)

Posted 04 May 2015, 21:01 #9 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Hi Gareth.
Welcome hopefully you will find most of what you need to know on here, excellent forum with a wealth of knowledge which is freely shared between us all the best Arctic.

changing-fuel-filter-t4891.html?hilit=Fuel%20Filter#p45065

Posted 04 May 2015, 21:37 #10 


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