Fault Charge Battery Signal by Arctic (Page 1 of 2)


User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Good evening gents hoping to find a solution or idea what this maybe while on the shopping run this afternoon and it started to rain o put the A/C on to demist the front screen then after a short while i get the battery charge fault flash up on the dash board screen and a nasty smell coming into the cabin not being to far from home decide to drive home got there safely no cutting out etc but still the nasy smell open the bonnet can not see howt untoward, anyways i have managed to take some snap shots of what is occuring below, this is combined with the smell any ideas please Arctic.

1st pic revs at 2000 no A/C induced
Image1

2nd pic with A/C induced called for revs 2000
Image2

3rd pic A/C still running but this time revs a t 2020 and the fault charge lights up
Image3

4th pic this time no A/C called but revs at 2060 and again fault charge light on
Image4

Would your opinions or for cetain that the alternator or the belt is at fault in this case cheers Arctic

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 16:39 #1 

User avatar
Trebor
Steve, first thing I would try is a multimeter across the battery as it should be just over 14v if charging correctly, you can also check via the OBD (On Board Diagnostics) at 19 then 9, this could at least tell you if the alternator is charging ok and allow further investigation.

I have a multimeter and am home tomorrow if you are stuck i could pop round
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Planning is an unnatural process, much better to just get on with things, that way failure comes as a complete surprise instead of being preceeded by a period of worry and doubt

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 17:20 #2 

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Borg Warner
Was the smell really foul? Guess you may have a cooked battery, remember in once in a Sherpa van; really bad. As Trebor says get a multi across it to conform or deny, but best not to use it. Hopefully it's just the battery which has shorted internally and not the out-put from the alternator which is goosed. As a comparison on tick-over my 18T shows about 14.3 IIRC.

Fingers crossed, oh and just in case thanks for the resistors.

Best of luck

Gary M

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 17:40 #3 

Last edited by Borg Warner on 15 Mar 2013, 17:41, edited 1 time in total.

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Arctic
(Trader)
Hi Rob.
I will be at home tomorrow but i am more worried about the smell that is coming from the alternator area is it the belt on the way out, the pulley not balanced or the alternator burning out ? questions

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 17:40 #4 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Borg Warner wrote:Was the smell really foul? Guess you may have a cooked battery, remember in once in a Sherpa van; really bad. As Trebor says get a multi across it to conform or deny, but best not to use it. Hopefully it's just the battery which has shorted internally and not the out-put from the alternator which is goosed. As a comparison on tick-over my 18T shows about 14.3 IIRC.

Fingers crossed, oh and just in case thanks for the resistors.

Best of luck

Gary M


Hi Gary
Funny you say battery as just before the new year i ahd to take the battery out becasue there was a lot of white powder in the battery case i wonder if so it as a 5 yr warranty with it bosch and is only 2.5 yr old

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 17:45 #5 

User avatar
Duncan
Being a diesel, the alternator itself is the most likely. Had the same thing on mine last year. Engine running, very least 13 volts but should be 14ish.

All those suggesting it are right. Start by checking with a multimeter. A failed battery itself wouldn't likely put the charge warning light on.

One of the common causes of alternator failure on the diesels is contamination of the brushes. Maybe this is causing a smell, though mine didn't and I haven't heard of it before.

Another possibilty, the aircon compressor has seized. This would stop the alternator belt running and cause a nasty smell, but I would expect a horrible squeal too. Try turning to ECON on the ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) and see if the problems go away.
Image

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 18:57 #6 

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raistlin
The last time I saw that Steve, it was the A/C compressor seized up. Unfortunately, that tends to ruin the flexible coupling crank pulley :(

Agree with what Duncan says except that there wasn't a squealing noise when I saw this.

A way to check is to get somebody to watch the drive belt and at a signal, you switch the A/C on. The seizure, if that is the case, will be immediately obvious while watching the drive belt. If this is the problem switch off the A/C immediately.

Changing the flexible crank pulley is no fun so I'd be a bit judicious in your use of the A/C until you check this out.
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

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Image

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 19:27 #7 

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Borg Warner
Arctic wrote:
Borg Warner wrote:Was the smell really foul? Guess you may have a cooked battery, remember in once in a Sherpa van; really bad. As Trebor says get a multi across it to conform or deny, but best not to use it. Hopefully it's just the battery which has shorted internally and not the out-put from the alternator which is goosed. As a comparison on tick-over my 18T shows about 14.3 IIRC.

Fingers crossed, oh and just in case thanks for the resistors.

Best of luck

Gary M


Hi Gary
Funny you say battery as just before the new year i ahd to take the battery out becasue there was a lot of white powder in the battery case i wonder if so it as a 5 yr warranty with it bosch and is only 2.5 yr old


Hiya Steve

Another thing I recall from my biking days a friends 850TDM overcharging to the tune of something like 18v? Quickly identified with the use of a multi that the regulator had gone, guess it's combined with the alternator on our cars though?

It'll be interesting to see the cause as I don't seem to recall alternators failing too regularly on our cars.

Hope its not too serious, at least with the battery you should be able to claim off the guarantee.

Best of luck

Gary M

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 19:47 #8 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Duncan wrote:Being a diesel, the alternator itself is the most likely. Had the same thing on mine last year. Engine running, very least 13 volts but should be 14ish.

All those suggesting it are right. Start by checking with a multimeter. A failed battery itself wouldn't likely put the charge warning light on.

One of the common causes of alternator failure on the diesels is contamination of the brushes. Maybe this is causing a smell, though mine didn't and I haven't heard of it before.

Another possibilty, the aircon compressor has seized. This would stop the alternator belt running and cause a nasty smell, but I would expect a horrible squeal too. Try turning to ECON on the ATC and see if the problems go away.


HI Duncan.
I have had a look before the light faded and the alternator belt is running and i can hear the A/C compressor kicking in i will give it a good looking over tomorrow i think Rob maybe coming over with a multimeter, at the same time i have a members fan to look at also weather permiting as per usual lately.

Hi Paul
I will almost for sure if it is the alternator change the pulley while i am doing the job because it is one of those while you are there may as well type of thing after hear that Lyndons gave up not so long back.

I fit is either the alternator or the compressor as anyone got any links for replacements please, also will a 2.5 petrol compressor and or 2.5 alternator fit a diesel car as i have both spare in the shed ? cheers Arctic.

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 19:52 #9 

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raistlin
If Rob doesn't get over with a multimeter Steve, let me know and I'll bring mine over for you.
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

Click the image to go to Nano-Meet Website
Image

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 19:58 #10 

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Duncan
Well as Paul has experienced it, and I was guessing from the symptoms, clearly the squealing doesn't happen as I expected. So it seems your first place to look.

The 2.5 alternator is for sure not the same as a diesel. The V6 ones are peanuts because there are so many around and they rarely fail. The diesel ones are expensive unfortunately because they are as reliable as Hermes couriers.

Aircon compressors. I'm not sure but again I think they are different. BMW engine means BMW specified ancilliaries. And everyone know how reliable the BMW engine is......
Image

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 20:01 #11 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Duncan wrote:Well as Paul has experienced it, and I was guessing from the symptoms, clearly the squealing doesn't happen as I expected. So it seems your first place to look.

The 2.5 alternator is for sure not the same as a diesel. The V6 ones are peanuts because there are so many around and they rarely fail. The diesel ones are expensive unfortunately because they are as reliable as Hermes couriers.

Aircon compressors. I'm not sure but again I think they are different. BMW engine means BMW specified ancilliaries. And everyone know how reliable the BMW engine is......


Hi Duncan.
Could you or any member give your opinion on this if i neede one or as anyone used one of these,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300600343601? ... 1438.l2649

and also any links on the pulley if needed Arctic

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 20:21 #12 

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Duncan
I went for a brand new one from Rimmer Bros, for not a fat lot more.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001612

There are two versions around. The later one has a slightly higher current rating. Many of the ebay ones don't tell you which they are, so I decide to go OEM brand new.
Image

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 20:31 #13 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Duncan wrote:I went for a brand new one from Rimmer Bros, for not a fat lot more.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001612

There are two versions around. The later one has a slightly higher current rating. Many of the ebay ones don't tell you which they are, so I decide to go OEM brand new.



HI Duncan
Thank you i note that rimmers carry two also do you or we know why this is and if so which would be best for my/your car being a 2004 model Cheers Arctic
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YLE000260

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YLE000260E

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 20:39 #14 

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Duncan
The 'E' version is a recon, the other is new. Apart from that, and £7 I reckon they are the same thing. With so little difference I went for new, though I'm not entirely convinced there's much in it.
Image

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 20:54 #15 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Duncan wrote:The 'E' version is a recon, the other is new. Apart from that, and £7 I reckon they are the same thing. With so little difference I went for new, though I'm not entirely convinced there's much in it.


Duncan thank you for you help and input most appreciated i will of cause let you know the out come tomorrow in th elight of day what i ahve found once i get her on the ramps etc i suppose if its the alternator it is the less expensive part with regards to the compressor cheers Arctic

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 21:05 #16 

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Duncan
Yes. Alternator is cheaper, but a harder job. From what I've heard though it's way more common than the compressor.
Image

Posted 15 Mar 2013, 21:57 #17 


carlpenn
Steve, if I can get my V6 sorted for the Road (Cooling Fan), you can have any bits you need from my Diesel. As sad as it is, my Tourer only has one fate left, due to the extent of work needed.
Upgrades:

Fitted Electric Memory Seat, Leather Cubby Lid, Wood Dash, Message Centre.

Posted 16 Mar 2013, 00:17 #18 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Hi Carl.
looks like we will be putting a plan together over the next week or so will talk to you soon Arctic.

Posted 16 Mar 2013, 03:04 #19 

User avatar
Trebor
we tested the battery with a multi this morning with engine running and only getting to 10v, so looks like the alternator
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click below to access nano website
Image

Planning is an unnatural process, much better to just get on with things, that way failure comes as a complete surprise instead of being preceeded by a period of worry and doubt

Posted 16 Mar 2013, 16:34 #20 


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