Fault Charge Battery Signal by Arctic (Page 2 of 2)

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Borg Warner
Swap the battery for a known good one Rob and test again JIC

Gary M.

Posted 16 Mar 2013, 17:16 #21 

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Borg Warner wrote:Swap the battery for a known good one Rob and test again JIC

Gary M.

Hi Rob/Gary.
Thank you appreciated have put the battery on charge and will check again later today, we did try another battery but was not fully charged either so that good a reading but after rob left i dug out another battery with 12.36v put this on for now so i can lock and unlock the car etc until the original battery is refitted, the smell seems to be the alternator burning to be honest i can also hear a clackity clack from the pulley area which i need to investigate did a little video which i will post up later tomorrow after i have tested again then next week it wil be front off and change the alternator at the same time sort out some other jobs ie runninglights i have had for about 8 months and not got round to fitting maybe even chnage the condensor which doe's not look that great looking though the front grill. :hail:Arctic
MGZT 190 V6 Anthracite Black

Posted 17 Mar 2013, 02:37 #22 

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Steve, not sure when you are tackling the job but I will be around Friday afternoon next week and Saturday if any good to you and will gladly give you a hand
Robs Pictures at :

Robs Car Gallery

click below to access nano website

Planning is an unnatural process, much better to just get on with things, that way failure comes as a complete surprise instead of being preceeded by a period of worry and doubt

Posted 17 Mar 2013, 09:44 #23 

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Borg Warner
Nothing lost then Steve by the looks of it.

What's the saying? Eliminate the improbable then whatever is left, no matter how impossible, is the cause.

Gary M

Posted 17 Mar 2013, 13:09 #24 

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Still not got round to this yet got new belts and have also been supplied with a alternator ( Sean to the rescue again) but the weather as stopped me along with other jobs i would just like to varify that the alternator below is the one for the job, reason for asking is that it states on the unit 50/115A as opposed to ones i have seen and found online reading 120A-150A also the YLE 102 500 thows up as a freelander are these ok or even stronger as i have heard on the grape vine cheers Arctic


MGZT 190 V6 Anthracite Black

Posted 03 Apr 2013, 20:55 #25 

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YLE 102500 is the old slightly lower powered version which is NLA. I think the newer version is 120A instead of 115A. I'm not sure whether the change was needed, or just a result of Valeo making a change anyway.

Posted 03 Apr 2013, 21:23 #26 

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Duncan wrote:YLE 102500 is the old slightly lower powered version which is NLA. I think the newer version is 120A instead of 115A. I'm not sure whether the change was needed, or just a result of Valeo making a change anyway.

Hi Duncan
Thank you for the reply would you think it would be ok to fit one of these as i was sent two and i am a bit wary as i do not want to do the job twice what would the lower amp by 5 really iffect if i was to fit it do you know all replies appreciated as always cheers Arctic.
MGZT 190 V6 Anthracite Black

Posted 03 Apr 2013, 22:26 #27 

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I can't see why it would be a problem being fractionally lower so I would expect it to work. However if you don't want to do the job twice, bearing in mind how often they fail why fit a second hand one? They can fail at very low miles, mine went at something like 50k. New ones are available from Rimmers for just a few pounds more than recon.

Posted 04 Apr 2013, 16:20 #28 

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Hi Duncan
I am hoping that the ones sent me will work out as good as the one that has just failed after 134000 miles and at a tenth of the cost of a new one from rimmers whom also want £100 surcharge i am at the momeny waiting on the pully to arrive as i am going to change that also as a precaution Arctic.
MGZT 190 V6 Anthracite Black

Posted 04 Apr 2013, 23:52 #29 

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Today Saturday 6th April i managed to get the car ready up on the ramps and axle stand to replace the alternator and belts,below are some snap shots of the serpentine drive belt and the A/C belt which looks to have seen better days, tomorrow i will take photo's of how i went about removing the alternator and belts and replacing them, fingers crossed all goes to plan cheers Arctic.

A/C belt not in very good condition so it looks like i would have been doing this in the very near future

cracked right through the belt

nice pic of how the Auxiliary drivebelt serpentines round the pulleys

MGZT 190 V6 Anthracite Black

Posted 06 Apr 2013, 22:47 #30 

Last edited by Arctic on 11 Apr 2013, 00:39, edited 2 times in total.

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This is how i went about fitting my faulty alternator on my Rover 75 Tourer diesel, in all this was carried out over two days as i had a few interuptions from family visits etc so a basic two hour job took me to days :roll: mind this included the photo sessions.

First i started with taking the engine cover off three bolts 8mm to give me more light and access if needed later on when working under the car as i intended to take the alternator off from below with out removing the front bumper.

Fig 1/2/3 remove the engine cover.



My next step was to drive the tourer up onto the ramps the reason for this was to give me the extra height you may have to use axle stands only if you do not have ramps, once on the ramps handbrake on full and chock the rear wheels both sides extra precaution, now remove the neg battery cable from the battery.

I then jacked up the drivers side of the cat with the sissor jack using my timber pad for extra height so i could put an axle stand under the car and remove the front wheel to gain access to the wheel arch liner which needs to be either removed completely or in my case peeled back, this gives you access to the A/C pump belt and tensioner.

Car jacked up axle stand in place as is the jack also Fig 4

Wheel arch liner peeled back giving the access to the A/C tensioner and main pulley Fig 5

I now marked the tensioner adjuster release nut with a permanent marker pen as reference when refiting the A/C belt which i was also changing Fig 6

Once i had undone the adjuster nut a little using 10mm, i then used a 22mm socket to turn the the tensioner clockwise to take the tension off the belt ready for removing. Fig7/8


With the air conditioning compressor drivebelt manoeuvred off the pulley i set about removing the main drive belt using a 24mm ring spanner and another spanner for leverage on the tensioner nut above the main pully,i also used a cable tie round the lever spanner and the front sub frame these were then joined together with another cable tie Fig9

The purpose of this is to close the cable tie in the middle as i pull on the tensioner nut which will hold it in place for me Fig 10

The belt can then be removed easy while the tensioner is held back by the spanner and cable ties Fig 11

From the engine bay remove the belt from the power steering pump pulley Fig 12

with the belt removed i cut the middle cable tie and released the tensioner back to its postion and replaced it with another cable tie fully open as i would be working in that area later removing the A/C compressor which in below the faulty alternator. Fig 13

The compressor thta needs to be lowered down and set to one side under the car Fig 14

Before that can be undertaken i need to set back the coolant pipe metal to rubber hose.

Bolt one below and to the left of the main pully 8mm there are Four in total Fig15

Bolt two in the coolant pipe line is below the A/C pulley tensioner Fig 16

Bolt three on the line is above the compressor its self Fig 17

Bolt four is fixed to the rubber hose to the left lying on your back looking up at the radiator Fig 18

So working first from inside the wheel arch we have bolt one Figs 19/20/21/22

Bolt 1 main pulley

Bolt 2 A/C pully

Bolt 3 above compressor

Bolt 4 fixed to front sub frame in front of the rad

Now the coolant pipe is loose set it back under the sump out of the way Fig 23

We now need to lower the A/C compressor with out removing any of the pipes or hoses this consists of four bolts size 10mm one & two are at the rear of the compressor together is at the front Fig 24

No 1 fixed to the sump just needs to be undone a little and not removed

No two can be removed this is fixed to the compressor

No 3 is at the front and in a tight place next to the front sub frame again i used 10mm socket to release the used a 10mm rachet ring spanner much easier undo but not completely out so it support the compressor for now Fig 25/26/27



No 3 bolts almost undone but holding on by a few threads, note the red wire going to the compressor this will have to be unpluged & removed later Fig 28

The red wire unpluged Fig 29

No 4 bolt at the rear of the compressor release but again do not undo completely Fig 30

Now with some mole grips you need to pull down on the bracket which is used for the petrol engine metal coolant pipes on the 2.0 and 2.5 V6 as this is in the way of the compressor as it is lowered down and set to the left to rest on the front sub frame as you will see in a later photo, Fig 31/32


There is another one to the left of the above bracket and this also needs to be bent down to help the compressor move down and away from the alternator.

With both brackest now bent down undo the two bolts which are just about taking the weight of the compressor and lower the compressor down and to the left with you lying under the car looking up it will rest on the jacking point at the front of the car Fig 33

You now need to remove the seperating plate between the compressor and the alternator three 10mm bolts Fig 34/35/36



With that removed you can now remove the 13mm nut hold the battery cable to the alternator Fig 37

Now loosen the lower bolts to the alternator Fig 38/

Note i have removed the right lower bolt from the alternator while the left one is still in place but loosened Fig 39

You now need to remove the top bolt from the alternator just above the belt pulley looking up in this photo Fig 40

The alternator will now rotate dwon towards you on the bolt that is still in place again resting in the front sub frame remove the electric cable and the last bolt and manovre the alternator out from the car Fig 41

Replace with the new one refitting is the reverse of removing as i say i did this over a period on two days due to interuptions i would estimate that this job could be undertaken and completed comfortably taking a few coffee breaks within 2.5 hours please remember if you tackle this your self please take note of how the main auxiliary belt is routed correctly as here below Fig 42

MGZT 190 V6 Anthracite Black

Posted 10 Apr 2013, 03:10 #31