75ZT Community

[PaulT]

Engine not turning over – not starter motor

A couple of days ago turned the key and there was a click and the engine did not turn over – car a CDTi. Turned the key a couple of times and the engine turned over and started. Did it again later in the day by which time very many turns were needed for the engine to turn over and start.

Removed the starter and replaced the solenoid contacts, replaced it and just clicks. So thought it must be the brushes. Ordered a new starter which I have just fitted and the same result, just clicking and by feeling the solenoid it is that that is making the clicking noise.

Looked in the official Rover manual and no wiring diagrams and the Haynes only has a guess as the wiring. It shows a direct connection to the ‘+’ side of the battery whereas the cable comes from the alternator. It shows the ‘-‘ going to the Immobiliser Control Unit.

Any ideas on what to try?

[PaulT]

Just had another look, turned the key and the under bonnet pump runs continuously. So perhaps the in-tank one has failed. Does the car have a fuel pressure sensor before allowing the engine to turn over?

[ceedy]

I've just had my itp pack up , and it did still start but took a bit more winding over and longer to fire up.. so fuel pressure will not affect the mechanical turning of the engine .

[PaulT]

Thanks for that - the spare pump I have ordered will probably come in useful at some time

[Duncan]

There's basically two wires to the starter. The big one from the battery, and the white red that comes from the immobiliser. I've ignored the engine earth, but you should check that's on properly.

It could be that the power from the immobiliser is getting there but only for a short time as the relay inside the immobiliser pulls in. So it clicks but doesn't engage. I have come across a failed immobiliser relay after a starter motor problem. If the key was turned and held there was only a click, but a few seconds later it would start.

So, you need to check if you are getting 12v on the white red all the time the key is turned, or just for a brief instant as you turn the key.

[PaulT]

Hi Duncan, thanks for your reply.

Presumably the white red is the one that goes on to the solenoid to activate it. Dark outside but I have just tried turning the key to the start position and clunk as the solenoid operates. Hold in the start position for a little while and then turn the key from the start position and 'clunk' as the solenoid deactivates.

Have tried holding in start position for many seconds and no engine turning.

[Duncan]

Yes, the white red is the solenoid. So it sounds like that's OK. So that rules out everything except the starter itself, or the cable from the battery to the starter.

Many years ago I saw a problem with the positive cable. The eyelet on the end din't have a tight crimp. So although it was on the end of the cable, it was very high resistance and not letting the power through because it had corroded inside where it was crimped.

Double check your earth to the engine though. You can get really wired symptoms if its been mistakenly connected to the wrong place. Once had a car that would only start if the handbrake was on. It was a Land Rover and the handbrake is on the transmission. The earth had both ends of the cable on the same side of the engine mounts so it only got a proper earth when the handbrake cable was tight.

[PaulT]

Thanks again Duncan will carry out some more checks tomorrow. The earth to the engine is under the top starter bolt so has been off and on a couple of times with the old motor and new. Will use a jump lead to provide another earth link.

Life gets interesting when cars go wrong.....

The lead to the motor comes out of the alternator, what is that all about?

[Duncan]

No. That's the lead from the starter to the alternator, a brown one. There should be a thicker red one too, from the battery, according to the workshop manual.

[PaulT]

I am now standing in the corner with the dunces cap on........

When I put the old starter in having changed the solenoid contacts the nut on the connection was shiny and I thought 'there must have been a cover over this'. Looked under the car and no it had not dropped off.

Now found the cable Duncan has mentioned sort of close to the engine. Attached it, it has a cover on it. Tried starting the car but it clicked and the dash lights dimmed so hopefully a starter tomorrow or at least turning over.

So a waste of a new starter but having a spare is not too bad. Also the fuel pump (have gone for the insert) will be good to carry - already carry the under bonnet one- although will check to see if the in-tank one is working.

Thanks for all your help Duncan.

[Colvert]

Give that battery a good 24 hours charging to fill it right up. Couple of hours might get the engine started but the battery needs MORE juice.

[PaulT]

Ah, the battery. I have had the car 4 years and the battery came with it. On cold mornings the turn over is far from rapid so a new one is the order of the day.

But it started this morning so the world is a far better place.