Front discs changed, rear discs? are they the same method by baconbuttyman


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baconbuttyman
Looking at the how to on the rear discs, is it the same method as the fronts, nothing different??

also when i changed the front discs, i was lucky, the new discs slid straight in, but if i need to widen the distance between the pads so the disc can slip in, how do i do that
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Posted 16 Jul 2011, 10:37 #1 

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MrB
Did you just change the front discs without changing the pads? You're not supposed to put used pads in with new discs.

The rears are similar but obviously they have a drum inside for the handbrake. So you may have to move the pads in to get the disc out but also sometimes the shoes in the drum can wear a groove and this means you might have to wind them in to get the discs off.

Chris
Chris
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Posted 16 Jul 2011, 15:15 #2 

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baconbuttyman
yes i changed the discs with out new pads as the old ones were perfectly fine and had plenty of life in them
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Posted 16 Jul 2011, 16:28 #3 

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baconbuttyman
MrB wrote:Did you just change the front discs without changing the pads? You're not supposed to put used pads in with new discs.

The rears are similar but obviously they have a drum inside for the handbrake. So you may have to move the pads in to get the disc out but also sometimes the shoes in the drum can wear a groove and this means you might have to wind them in to get the discs off.

Chris



move the pads in, dont they come off with the caliper, again, not replacing the pads as they are nearly new, and before you say wow, ya gotta replace the pads, no they will be fine.

how do i move the pads in also how do i wind the shoes in.
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Posted 17 Jul 2011, 09:31 #4 

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MrB
baconbuttyman wrote:
MrB wrote:Did you just change the front discs without changing the pads? You're not supposed to put used pads in with new discs.

The rears are similar but obviously they have a drum inside for the handbrake. So you may have to move the pads in to get the disc out but also sometimes the shoes in the drum can wear a groove and this means you might have to wind them in to get the discs off.

Chris



move the pads in, dont they come off with the caliper, again, not replacing the pads as they are nearly new, and before you say wow, ya gotta replace the pads, no they will be fine.

how do i move the pads in also how do i wind the shoes in.

BBM am not having a go about your pads. I have always been told you must replace your pads with new when fitting new discs. I have had to discard pads with lots of life left on several occasions in following this advice. I am not sure if it is a piece of safety advice or that old pads may damage new discs or for some other reason. However, you ain't replacing them, and that is your prerogative.

As to why I said you may have to move the pads in, this is because you will probably have a lip on your worn discs. The pads remove material from the discs making them too thin, this is generally when they need to be replaced. The pads do not usually cover the full area of the disc and so they normally leave a lip on the outside of the disc.

My chosen method for moving the piston in a little in order to allow the disc to be removed is to use a good, large and strong flat bladed screwdriver and to push it in between the back of the outermost (nearest you) brake pad and the carrier and pull away from the vehicle on it. This way you should apply even pressure and the piston should move back in at the correct angle. Remember to take the top off the brake fluid reservoir also.

To wind in the handbrake shoes you need to use exactly the same method as is used to adjust the handbrake, but in reverse. So you need to slacken off your handbrake by turning the knurled nit at the top centre inside the drum in order to move the pads away from the drum.

Chris
Chris
Member No. 143
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Posted 17 Jul 2011, 17:04 #5 


PaulT
You might have ridges on the old discs meaning that the pads will have worn so as to incorporate the ridges as valleys on the pads.

Fit new discs and you will not have full contact between the pads and discs because the valleys will not contact the new disc.

So fitting new dics and pads means that you have full contact.

HOWEVER, having been happy with fitting new pads to old discs means that the flat new pads only contact the ridges on the old discs until they wear so that the ridges form valleys on the pads and then you have full contact.

So whilst new discs and pads will give full contact old pads with new discs will give the same result as new pads with old discs
Paul

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Posted 17 Jul 2011, 17:25 #6 

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baconbuttyman
ok, will i have to wind the brake shoes in to replace the disc, i would have thought the shoes are part of the drum and wouldnt impact the disc renewal
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Posted 17 Jul 2011, 18:32 #7 

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Mick
(Site Admin)
You don't do any winding for the pads, you press the pads back, use a lever as you have to press hard, make sure the lid is off the reservoir and/or you attach a piece of plastic pipe on the bleed nipple to release the pressure in the hydraulic system. You may have to release the handbrake shoes a tad to get the rear off by winding the adjuster. The handbrake mechanism is not an itegral part of the rear disk, the drum part of the disc covers the mechanism and shoes, (just like proper brakes, :))

Posted 17 Jul 2011, 22:35 #8 

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baconbuttyman
cheers guys, will have a go when the weather clears up
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Posted 18 Jul 2011, 09:04 #9 

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baconbuttyman
well, tonight i set about doing the discs, got all my tools ready, wheel off, could i get to the caliper bolts, could i eckers like, so i phoned a mate and all set for friday night :cheers: :cheers:
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Posted 20 Jul 2011, 17:52 #10 

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takestock
Hi Mick, caliper off in two sections, remove the plastic push in covers to reveal two torx bits, off comes the caliper housing then you have better access to the crappy little bolts (12 or 13mm forget which), use a six sided spanner or socket if you can to avoid rounding them off ;)
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Posted 20 Jul 2011, 18:03 #11 

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baconbuttyman
ah thanks mate, no time tonight, the mate who is doing it has his own garage, i may ask if i can do it there so he can rescue the situation if it goes pear shaped.
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Posted 21 Jul 2011, 08:52 #12 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Hi BBM
brake caliper dust covers below.
Image1

Image2

because the allen key tool maybe a litte long as below
Image3

I cut the tool down about 1" this then made a socket type tool also for me and i was able to use both when needed.
Image4

Image5

Image6
Arctic

Posted 22 Jul 2011, 09:39 #13 

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weeman
I use a G-Clamp to push the brake caliper back!, again ensure the lid is of the reservoir and slowly tighten the clamp to push back. Remember and give the slides a good clean while there out (thats the two long bolts you take out with the allen key in case you didn't know) a good going over with a wire brush and a wipe down is just the job.

Posted 24 Jul 2011, 16:05 #14 

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takestock
you changed that rear spring yet Artic?
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Dave....

Posted 24 Jul 2011, 17:45 #15 

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Arctic
(Trader)
takestock wrote:you changed that rear spring yet Artic?

Hi Dave ages ago how did the yorkie meet go, and hows the old gall bladder. ;)

Posted 25 Jul 2011, 00:40 #16 

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takestock
both are / were fine for now :D
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Dave....

Posted 25 Jul 2011, 06:18 #17 


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