75ZT Community

But you'd need to thread wiring through FOUR doors

No problem for a man of your talents...............

Just think of it as four door mirrors.

raistlin wrote:But you'd need to thread wiring through FOUR doors

give Rob something to do at the nano meets (you know he loves it)

JohnDotCom wrote:

But you'd need to thread wiring through FOUR doors

No problem for a man of your talents...............

Just think of it as four door mirrors.

Actually John, seeing as you are attending the nano, we could sit you by a door and let you get on with it just shout and I'm sure domebody will move the chair to the next door for you

takestock wrote:

raistlin wrote:But you'd need to thread wiring through FOUR doors

give Rob something to do at the nano meets (you know he loves it)

You might want to mention that to Ben... from a safe distance

takestock wrote:As John said for a flashing LED (Light Emitting Diode) the pulse is already there as it shows on the dash with the existing flashing LED, just a matter of finding the connection isn't it. Like this idea a lot already.

It will only be accessible on the IPKs PCB (Printed Circuit Board) I would think. The BCU (Body Control Unit) will send a message to start fast flashing, then slow flashing. Then the bus communication will go to sleep, and the circuits in the IPK (Instrument pack (IPK from the German)) keep it flashing.

Unless you really want it to show locking status, easisest is probably to drive a relay from ignition, and supply the Normally closed contacts with battery, the output going to the LEDs. Then the LEDS will light when ignition is switched off (or accessory if you choose)

Don't forget if you buy a standard LED you will need a resistor. 470 ohm is typically right for 12v but does depend on the LED.

LED modules are available with a built in resistor, and attached wiring. You can also get flashing LEDs. Probably all available from fleabay.

The size of the LED doesn't have much bearing on the brightness. You can het ultrabright 3mm ones, or standard brightness large ones. There's not even a big variance in current, but there can be a big difference in viewing angle. I have some on a test rig that have a very narrow beam. They never bother me sat next to them, but people across the other side of the office, 20ft away are always complaining if they are on.

Edit:
these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50-x-5mm-Red-Ultr ... 45f8c8ab69
are ones that would do for 12v. Nice clear LED when not on, and seem quite bright. You would need to solder the resistors onto the LED and add wires. You also have to connect them the right way round or they go pop.

Would the ones on here do the job?

http://www.eled.com/category.asp?catalo ... led&page=1

Guys! you are all making it to complicated for the poor chap
.................... all you need is four of these,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260743236412&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D260743236412%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

Wire straight to 12v feed and put a fuse between, even put in a rocker switch for manual operation. If you don't want the LEDS draining your battery then put in a small Solar charger that outputs a trickle charge and keeps your battery in good form, the cost is low for either of these mods.....

Hope that helps guys!

Dallas wrote:Guys! you are all making it to complicated for the poor chap
.................... all you need is four of these,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260743236412&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D260743236412%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

Wire straight to 12v feed and put a fuse between, even put in a rocker switch for manual operation. If you don't want the LEDS draining your battery then put in a small Solar charger that outputs a trickle charge and keeps your battery in good form, the cost is low for either of these mods.....

Hope that helps guys!

I'm quite happy with complicated

I want to be able to shut the door, press the button to lock it and set the alarm, and for the led's to start to glow. Then when I unlock, for them to go out.

Dallas wrote:Guys! you are all making it to complicated for the poor chap
.................... all you need is four of these,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260743236412&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D260743236412%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

Duncan wrote:You can also get flashing LEDs. Probably all available from fleabay.

beg to differ

mark_bonsai wrote:I'm quite happy with complicated

Not according to your OP

You could, of course, get some bi-colour LEDs, connect them across the lock and unlock solenoid wires and thus have red LEDS when locked and green LEDs when unlocked

raistlin wrote:

mark_bonsai wrote:I'm quite happy with complicated

Not according to your OP

Once I know how to do it I'm quite happy to crack on.

Electrics aren't my forte, and it's knowing how to wire these to do what I want that's past my skill level.

raistlin wrote:You could, of course, get some bi-colour LEDs, connect them across the lock and unlock solenoid wires and thus have red LEDS when locked and green LEDs when unlocked

Ooo, now there's a thought, and would this be easier to wire?

raistlin wrote:

mark_bonsai wrote:I'm quite happy with complicated

Not according to your OP

Thats what I thought!

...... well! we are all here to help................. I think.

raistlin wrote:You could, of course, get some bi-colour LEDs, connect them across the lock and unlock solenoid wires and thus have red LEDS when locked and green LEDs when unlocked

Err, no. Only while locking and unlocking if you do it like that. The power is only applied for a short time to power the motors one way or the other. Once the door is locked / unlocked the LEDs would go out.

Duncan wrote:Err, no. Only while locking and unlocking if you do it like that. The power is only applied for a short time to power the motors one way or the other. Once the door is locked / unlocked the LEDs would go out.

You see, this is why I come to you guys. Technical knowledge!

Duncan wrote:

raistlin wrote:You could, of course, get some bi-colour LEDs, connect them across the lock and unlock solenoid wires and thus have red LEDS when locked and green LEDs when unlocked

Err, no. Only while locking and unlocking if you do it like that. The power is only applied for a short time to power the motors one way or the other. Once the door is locked / unlocked the LEDs would go out.

With a bit of extra electronics, and a permanent supply, it's a different answer of course. It would need a flip flop circuit, driven by the signals that Paul suggests.

Duncan wrote:

raistlin wrote:You could, of course, get some bi-colour LEDs, connect them across the lock and unlock solenoid wires and thus have red LEDS when locked and green LEDs when unlocked

Err, no. Only while locking and unlocking if you do it like that. The power is only applied for a short time to power the motors one way or the other. Once the door is locked / unlocked the LEDs would go out.

Sorry Duncan, I made the assumption that the idea was to use the lock / unlock pulses to switch a latched circuit

I see how my idea could have been misconstrued... oooops.

I think there is a permanent 12 volt supply in each door

Ordered some LED's today which come with resistors for the correct voltage. I'll see what they look like in the escutcheons then I'm in your hands guys for the technical info on wiring them.

LED's arrived today. This is what they look like in the escutcheons.