clutch problem by marlyn

hi i have recently purchased rover 75 2001 2.5 V6 The car had been driving fine when the other on pushing the clutch down the pedal stopped on the floor. Couldnt select any gears with car running but managed to start it in second just to get home. Would anyone have any ideas what this might be and cost of repair. Thanks

Posted 05 Feb 2012, 20:28 #1 

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I did mine a few years ago. It will depend a lot on if you are doing it yourself, or having it done for you.


What's going on with the forum? I typed way more than this, and it's only put in a very unhelpful ine as above.

Anyway, as I tried to say:
It will be the clutch master or slave. The master is easier and cheaper, as the slave means taking the gearbox off.I believe it's false economy to do just one though, as the other will follow shortly afterwards. Replacing both avoids any cross contamination of the fluid that can happen otherwise.

Posted 06 Feb 2012, 08:02 #2 

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Duncan wrote:What's going on with the forum? I typed way more than this, and it's only put in a very unhelpful line as above.

I'm afraid I don't know :confused: Parts of posts (or whole posts) shouldn't disappear without reason. Nothing suggests there was any anomalies logged at the time of your posts so I'm afraid I can't offer any explanation :(

Posted 06 Feb 2012, 10:10 #3 

Took my 75 in to work today [ i work in a crash repair center ] the mechanic had a look he thinks its the slave that's gone as there is oil around the bottom of the box which he says is clutch fluid . i got a new cylinder off ebay for £95 and luckily for me they going to fit it at work for free .

Posted 07 Feb 2012, 20:23 #4 

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If the slave has failed, you would see exactly that, fluid under the bell housing.

I'd reccomend fitting a new clutch plate at the very least as theres a good chance the fluid will have got onto it, and in any case it's probably close to worn out so would need the box out again to do.

As I said, for the cost, I'd replace the master too, as again it wears out around the same time as the slave, and it avoids any contamination getting into your nice new slave.

I know they are both more expense, but it will cost far more if you have to have the box out again in a few months or even a couple of years.

Any one else think that way?

Posted 07 Feb 2012, 20:52 #5 

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I've seen the master/slave scenario a couple of times now.
I don't like signatures, they take up too much screen space.

Posted 07 Feb 2012, 20:56 #6 

thanks for the advice will order new plate.

Posted 07 Feb 2012, 23:17 #7 

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Having done mine recently I would say to definitely replace master, slave and clutch together! When one bit goes the rest will not be far behind :D

Posted 07 Feb 2012, 23:23 #8 

Absolutely agree with you Duncan. You only want to separate the gearbox and engine once every few years not months.

Also as it is being done free you have no labour costs so this will be a very cheap job compared to around £700 normally.

That apart Mrs Lincoln, did you enjoy the play


Posted 08 Feb 2012, 07:31 #9 

hi got new clutch master and slave cylinder. took the box out today managed to get it out with just lowering the one side of the subframe , the box was full of fluid and small bits of plastic cant see where the plastic bits have come from cleaned every thing up but no signs of anything broken .

Posted 08 Feb 2012, 22:19 #10 

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Plastic bits are parts of the slave cylinder. I had the same. The release bearing which is part of the slave had failed, and worn the plastic of the slave cylinder away. It should be obvious when you take the old slave off, it will likely fall apart and the ball bearings drop out.

Posted 08 Feb 2012, 22:41 #11 

Frederick A West
Rover 75 clutch problem solved.
Go to Halfords, get a Gunston Eazybleed for £20. Pull the brass nut off the end of the tube. Force fit the end of the tube into the tube that goes on the bleed nipple. Connect Eazybleed to spare tyre (make sure pressure is no more than 20 psi) spray brake fluid all over engine compartment until tube is pushed securely onto nipple. Check there are no air bubbles in line, undo nipple. Now go inside car, slowly undo the lid on top of the clutch master cylinder (access to this is gained by removing the pedal cover and dash trim, just two screws and two toggles at the back and it all pulls out) until fluid pisses out. Quickly do it up again. Close the nipple. Job done. Your car will stink of brake fluid for the next month, but at least it's not going to the scrap yard. There you go that's that bit of built in obsilesance beaten.

Posted 15 Feb 2016, 12:54 #12