Rover 75 switchpack problem by phenonix (Page 1 of 3)


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phenonix
I am having a problem whereas when i turn off the ignition the red lights on the switchpack immediately go out, normally they should stay on for a 30 secs enabling me to close the windows, now i have to turn back to ignition and close the windows, would anyone know what i should check?
Is it a BCU (Body Control Unit) problem?

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 07:42 #1 

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phenonix
oooh
Can you see how it automatically filled in BCU?
thats nifty!
back to thread with my problem

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 07:43 #2 

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JohnDotCom
I had a similar problem which Duncan sorted at the last Nano meet.
One of the connectors had got damp into it which stopped it from working correctly.
When he is on later it will jog his mind as to what plug and socket it was.
Sorry didn't photograph it at time.
Was a pain to find the fault though.
John

"My lovely car now sold onto a very happy new owner.
I still love this marque and I will still be around, preferred selling to breaking, as a great runner and performer"

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 09:39 #3 

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phenonix
I'm betting it will be, i knew Duncan (lowedb) was here as i wanted to pm him as he has helped me out a few times, what is his name here?
Is he using Duncan?

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 09:45 #4 

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phenonix
I have already looked at C0066 and C0088, the two connectors in the door handle, there is 12v in pin 1 (going through this with Paul too) but the problem is the stay alive function

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 09:48 #5 

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raistlin
phenonix wrote:I have already looked at C0066 and C0088, the two connectors in the door handle, there is 12v in pin 1 (going through this with Paul too) but the problem is the stay alive function


Pin 6 Joe, not pin 1 (on C0088)
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

Click the image to go to Nano-Meet Website
Image

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 10:31 #6 

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raistlin
JohnDotCom wrote:I had a similar problem which Duncan sorted at the last Nano meet.
One of the connectors had got damp into it which stopped it from working correctly.


Already checked that the permanent 12 volts is there John :(

Same fault with two different switchpacks as well.
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

Click the image to go to Nano-Meet Website
Image

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 10:33 #7 

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JohnDotCom
Yes he is on here as member Duncan.
Some electrical faults can be cleared by doing a battery reset but I
fear this one is a corroded connector.
John

"My lovely car now sold onto a very happy new owner.
I still love this marque and I will still be around, preferred selling to breaking, as a great runner and performer"

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 10:36 #8 

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phenonix
raistlin wrote:
phenonix wrote:I have already looked at C0066 and C0088, the two connectors in the door handle, there is 12v in pin 1 (going through this with Paul too) but the problem is the stay alive function


Pin 6 Joe, not pin 1 (on C0088)


Oh yes, looking at it from the wrong end, always have problems with left and right!

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 10:42 #9 

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raistlin
JohnDotCom wrote:fear this one is a corroded connector.


But it never rains on Oz John. This I know cos SWMBO watches Neighbours ;) How can it be corrosion? :gmc:
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

Click the image to go to Nano-Meet Website
Image

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 10:45 #10 

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phenonix
Your right there Paul, you have to deal with different elements there, my car just has to deal with intense heat here most of the time, but it is raining here now, although my problem is from months ago

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 10:51 #11 

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phenonix
Anyone know how the stay alive function works?
Timer?

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 10:55 #12 

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Duncan
Paul has been giving you good info.

The stay alive function works becuase there are three feeds to the switchpack. Two are ignition (white / light green) and one is permanent (orange green). When the ignition feed is on, everything is on. When you switch off a timer starts and keeps the system powered up using the orange green. Once the timer finishes, it switches off and will only come back on when the white / light greens are back on.

Did you test that the 12v was still present on the orange green, with the switchpacks still plugged in? Sometimes with a bad connection you can get the volts for the multimeter to read, because it takes so litle current. As soon as you try to take any current (by connecting the switchpack) then the volts drop away. So test it again, with the pack plugged in.

If this isn't the problem, check both white / light greens, and all the grounds.
Image

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 12:02 #13 

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Duncan
raistlin wrote:
JohnDotCom wrote:fear this one is a corroded connector.


But it never rains on Oz John. This I know cos SWMBO watches Neighbours ;) How can it be corrosion? :gmc:


But surely they wash their cars sometimes?
Image

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 12:05 #14 

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phenonix
as it is night time here i will need to check tomorrow, what i did notice was pin 5 had 1.43v , is this right?, what is that wire for?

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 12:06 #15 

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phenonix
confused as all hell trying to visualise this when not at the car, but i think there is 1.43 volts in pin 2, i'll double check tomorrow

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 12:24 #16 

Last edited by phenonix on 05 Jul 2010, 12:26, edited 1 time in total.

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Duncan
I'll look it up this evening, but is probably the window bus. What colour was the wire?

Thanks
Image

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 12:25 #17 

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phenonix
Rave says
1=DDM bus
2=PWM signal, switch illumination
3=Auxillary feed12v , fuse 11
4=earth
5=not used
6=permanent 12v

i remember it was the second one so either 2 or 5
should either of there be showing 1.43 volts after ignition is off?

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 12:30 #18 

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phenonix
well 5 is not used so that leaves 2, illumintion

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 12:32 #19 

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phenonix
Right, this was bothering me so much i went down in my pyjamas :em:

Rave says
C0081
6 wires
1=WB-- --DDM Bus (signal)
2=RW-- --Switch Illumination (PWM signal)
3=LGW---Auxillary feed 12v (fuse 11)
4=B-------Earth
5=--------Not used
6=OG----Battery permanent feed 12V

this is what mine is doing with ignition off

1 is 11.43 volts
2 is .143 volts

and 6 is 0.00, dead

all the other spins are showing no voltage either
now i did not check with the ignition on as it is winter here and i was freezing

but Duncan, does this look right?

Posted 05 Jul 2010, 12:56 #20 


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