75ZT Community

Having struggled for 4 years now, being a bit disabled (right arm, and hand), I now need to convert the operation of my light controls to a simple small switch situate on the left somewhere, or ideally a remote control!

Has anyone any experience of this or can suggest a good auto electrician within say 75 miles of Colchester, who could facilitate the job?

Also within this category (electrics) my 2nd key has never worked on the 'Fob' operation, although it does manually.

I've tried the 4 blinks thing, new battery etc. no joy. I have the bar code attachment, so can a specialist activate the Fob for me?

Any help or suggestions very welcome ...

I suspect that simulating the lighting functions of the LSM (Light Switch Module) with a remote receiver shouldn't be a difficult task

I feel sure that Duncan and / or myself could come up with a solution Not exactly near you though

I think the answer is inside the light switch module.

The front panel is separate, with a bit of ribbon cable. I have a feeling it simply grounds each of the wires to give sidelights / headlights and for the fog switches. The others take the pot values and the illumination.

I say have a feeling, as it's something I want to try out but have never had time, and it's the logical way to have designed it.

If it's correct, a couple of switches in paralell ought to do the trick.

Could also be used as the basis for an autolights system using a light sensor and circuit.

Will try to dig out my spare switch sometime soon.

Remote light switching! now thats a task and a half.

Would something like this do? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250632860812&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D250632860812%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

............. as its 6 channel you can have each car light switch mode (sidelights, main-beam, full-beam etc) on its own channel with individual button control. Strip the wire loom from back of the original 75 car light switch and connect to each terminal block connector on the circuit board on the main remote base unit (see terminal block section in the pic). Not sure if it would actually work though, but worth contacting a car Auto Electrician.

Found this guy..... http://www.t-m.co.uk/

Goodluck

Problem with doing stuff on the output side of the light switch module is the way it works. You would either have to cut the feed which would give you fault warnings all the time, or risk back feeding the smartfets inside the switch and I think that would cause problems.

raistlin wrote:I suspect that simulating the lighting functions of the LSM with a remote receiver shouldn't be a difficult task

I feel sure that Duncan and / or myself could come up with a solution Not exactly near you though

Hello Paul and Duncan,

I act as a Trustee for my old firm's Pension Fund (I'm retired now) and I need to visit a member in Telford to have some documents signed and witnessed in the near future, when he returns from Spain.

I'd be happy to meet up with you, (both?) to your convenience if you could help? When I had a company car, they kindly had all these things done for me, and I've been tardy in completing the last few jobs in my own car, but as I had a 'near' thing last year with lights, I must finish the last two jobs off, before it's the other way round.

'Dallas' has suggested a 12 channel remote unit, which might work, what do you think?

Martin

Dallas wrote:Remote light switching! now thats a task and a half.

Found this guy..... http://www.t-m.co.uk/

Goodluck

Many thanks for the help, I've also replied to Duncan and Paul.

Duncan wrote:If it's correct, a couple of switches in paralell ought to do the trick.

In which case it would be simple to wire a remote receiver in parallel I would have thought Duncan

@ Dallas

That remote would be as good as any to perform the front end earthing functions as described by Duncan

Sounds like a plan somehow.

Will need to get on and look into it, won't I.

Should be OK this weekend, all being well.

Duncan wrote:Sounds like a plan somehow.

Will need to get on and look into it, won't I.

Should be OK this weekend, all being well.

If your theory is correct Duncan, I can certainly help out as far as the remote goes

Right, for once have done something I said I would.

So, first the bad news. It's not a connect to ground


The good news, it's even simpler.

Going on the numbering of the connector on the switch PCB (Printed Circuit Board) (the front bit) there is a common signal pin 7. (ground is actually pin 1, so I was wrong).

For main lighting there are two switches: sidelights (pin 4) and headlights (pin 9). The switches are closed for lights OFF (so 4 and 9 are connected to 7) 4 is disconnected from 7 with 9 still connected for sidelights lights on. 9 is then disconnected for headlights.

The foglights work in a similar but conected briefly to toggle status. 3 to 7 is rear fogs, 5 to 7 is front fogs.

Now I haven't done any wiring to try it out, but my multimeter tells me it works this way. Fogs could be done in paralell to the switches, side / head would need a series relay in the ribbon cable or a cut on the PCB (though I couldn't spot an easy place to cut).

Duncan wrote:Right, for once have done something I said I would.

So, first the bad news. It's not a connect to ground


The good news, it's even simpler.

Going on the numbering of the connector on the switch PCB (the front bit) there is a common signal pin 7. (ground is actually pin 1, so I was wrong).

For main lighting there are two switches: sidelights (pin 4) and headlights (pin 9). The switches are closed for lights OFF (so 4 and 9 are connected to 7) 4 is disconnected from 7 with 9 still connected for sidelights lights on. 9 is then disconnected for headlights.

The foglights work in a similar but conected briefly to toggle status. 3 to 7 is rear fogs, 5 to 7 is front fogs.

Now I haven't done any wiring to try it out, but my multimeter tells me it works this way. Fogs could be done in paralell to the switches, side / head would need a series relay in the ribbon cable or a cut on the PCB (though I couldn't spot an easy place to cut).

Good work there Duncan

As many of you know I'm in the same situation as Chartehouse regarding the LMS, how ever as I have just the Air Conditioning on centre console in a 4 hole facia, would it not be possible to use spare 4th hole to configure light switch into it? or do I open another can of worms, I don't particularly want to go down remote control route.

I would welcome your opinons gentlemen.

Barry

Beejay wrote:As many of you know I'm in the same situation as Chartehouse regarding the LMS, how ever as I have just the Air Conditioning on centre console in a 4 hole facia, would it not be possible to use spare 4th hole to configure light switch into it? or do I open another can of worms, I don't particularly want to go down remote control route.

I would welcome your opinons gentlemen.

Barry

Apologies Chartermark (not Charterhouse)

It should work either way.

Are you thinking one switch to turn on sides and heads, or a two way switch?

Beejay wrote: Apologies Chartermark (not Charterhouse)

Thats quite all right a damn good school anyway ...

Duncan wrote:It should work either way.

Are you thinking one switch to turn on sides and heads, or a two way switch?

I'm thinking of one switch for side and head lights, fog lights (front & rear, leveling) to stay as is, in the event I ever sell the car it could revert back. I have a spare LMS that was replaced when I had front fogs put on.

Barry

Certainly seems to have provoked some interest - I'll leave it with you now then Barry ...

Been busy on the bay of fleas. I've bought some pf the right connectors. The plan is to make a link that plugs in between the front panel and main PCB, so no mods to the units themselves.

I'll make something up as a test / demo and see how we go from there.