Oil Change Diesel R75 by Arctic


User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
This is a pictorial how to on how I do an oil change on the R75 MGZT diesel.

Hopefully this will help new members and owners if they decide to do there own oil change at some time.

My first bit of advise is get all your tools and items you will need together and allocate your self a day for the oil change to take place.

On the day of the oil change drive the car for at least 5 miles this will get the oil hot and help with draining the old oil out, once you return from the drive either jack the car up onto axle stands or drive onto ramps if you have some.

You can now remove the under tray ready for when you drain the oil Fig 1/2/3/4 (a)
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Now the under tray has been removed turn your attention to removing the engine cover, some may leave it in place but as I was changing all the filters I removed the engine cover, in my opinion it helps as you have a little bit more room, tools need are 8mm socket. Fig 1/2/3

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(NOTE )
They should all be the same size unless someone as lost one and replaced it with a longer one, best to put either the same length or smaller bolt to top left of cover. 16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be, do not over tighten when re-fiting, (TOP LEFT BOLT) as it can puncture the cam cover

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With all three engine cover bolts removed you can lift the engine cover off putting it safe to one side with the bolts. Fig 4/5/6
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The next job is to loosen not remover yet the oil filter top you will need a 36mm shallow socket Fig 7/8
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Below the oil filter is the alternator this must be covered up so no oil drips onto it as damaged can occur thus causing you to change it should damage occur. Fig 9
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Use some good rags, cloths to cover the alternator up as here below Fig 10
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With the rags in place you can now loosen the oil filter top a little Fig 11/12
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Now it is time to get under the car and drain the oil which should have settled nicely in the sump, the sump is situated at a great angle so the oil will drain freely you will need a 15mm socket and 15mm ratchet spanner to remove the sump bolt. Fig 13/14
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Once you have cracked the bolt you can use the 15mm ratchet spanner it gives you more control over the bolt again in my opinion. Fig 15
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Place your oil catcher or bucket which ever you are using under the sump area ready to catch the oil once you remove the sump bolt. Fig 16
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With the sump bolts loosened you can slowly remove it always keeping pressure on it so oil does not yet pour from the sump. Fig 17/18
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As you can see from this photo I am still keeping pressure on the bolt to stop the oil from pouring out, i am now ready to remove the bolt quickly so the oil will drain straight into the oil container below.Fig 19
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With the bolt removed fast the oil pours out into the container and I have my hands out of the way. Fig 20/21
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Leave the oil draining for a while, you can now think about removing the oil filter Fig 22
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After you have had a coffee or cup of tea giving time for the oil to drain from the oil filter pot, you are ready to carry on with the oil change, removing the oil filter top, (quick little tip tighten up the oil filter top more than you would normally) then re-loosen this will become apparent later.

Undo and release the top slowly making sure you have a small container ready to drop the top into, an old windscreen washer container cut in half is good Fig 23/24
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Once loosened enough you can remove with your hand Fig 25
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Drop it into the container, as you can see when I re-tightened the oil filter top earlier it as crushed the oil filter helping it stay in place when I remove the top, you don't have to do this as you can remove it with your fingers after the top as been removed if you so wish. Fig 26
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Now the filter as been removed you can see I split a little of the oil but the rag as done it's job,there is still some oil in the pot I like to remove this also Fig 27
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I need to get this oil out of the pot as I want it to be clean inside as best it can before adding the new filter Fig 28
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To do this use some more old rags to soak up the oil left over in the pot Fig 29
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pot cleaned out good enough I think Fig 30
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With your new filter you will have some new O-rings some come with three O-rings some with just the large one as in this case below, disregard the copper washer it is not used on the diesel but they all have then in the box ? Fig 31
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The large O-ring needs to be changed also the small ones if you have them in you filter box Fig 32
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First remove the old filter Fig 33
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Now you can remove the old O-ring use an hook tool if you have one if not a small thin screwdriver will do Fig 34
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Dispose of the O-ring safely as you will be fitting the new one shown with the new filter here Fig 35
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Add the new O-ring to the filter top Fig 36
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The new filter can now be fitted into the oil chamber Fig 37/38
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Followed by the filter top making sure you keep it centre lower it down and do it up hand tight Fig 39/40
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Finally tighten it up with the socket (Nm25 = 18lbf ft) do not over tighten as you will crush the filter inside damaging it Fig 41
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Remove the rags and make sure all is clean and dry Fig 42
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Time to make another coffee while that cools you can pop back under the car wipe any dripping oil, then re-fit the sump bolt using a new one if you have one if not the old one should be ok. Fig 43
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Finger tight sump bolt Fig 44
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Tighten the sump bolt up with the ratchet spanner 15mm Fig 45
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Re-fit the under tray drop the car off the axle stands or ramps if you used ramps push it off slow, get someone to help if you can, if not you could add the 5ltrs of oil first then drive it off you will then need to wait for the oil to drain back down before adding anymore.

You can now add you new oil use a funnel it is even better if you can get someone to hold the funnel for you, this will avoid spillage Fig 46
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Add a full 5ltrs at first Fig 47
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(NOTE )
They should all be the same size unless someone as lost one and replaced it with a longer one, best to put either the same length or smaller bolt to top left of cover. 16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be, do not over tighten when re-fiting, (TOP LEFT BOLT) as it can puncture the cam cover

While the oil makes it's way down to the sump re-fit the engine cover Fig 48
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Add one more ltr then start the car so the oil fills the oil filter pot, let the oil drain down again add another 400ml take car for a quick drive couple of miles return let the engine tick over for about 5 minutes then turn the engine off, let oil settle again for about 15 minutes recheck level top up to max if you need to good luck Arctic

Posted 12 Mar 2015, 02:14 #1 

Last edited by Arctic on 13 Mar 2015, 09:49, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
sewerman
Fantastic guide Steve - was planning on dong this this weekend so perfect timing . Just need to check I've got 15mm sockets
Royal Blue Rover 75 CDT Tourer

Posted 12 Mar 2015, 07:40 #2 

User avatar
Mick
(Site Admin)
Steve, pic 43. I presume means replace sump plug washer with new, not new bolt?

Posted 12 Mar 2015, 09:20 #3 

User avatar
raistlin
Superbly logical and informative guide Steve :)

Personally I've always used the vacuum pump method of extracting the old oil. I suspect it doesn't drain the oil 100% but always seems to me to have been sufficiently effective. Clearly saves a lot of time and inconvenience getting the under car parts done.

What is your opinion of that method of extraction please?
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

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Posted 12 Mar 2015, 11:30 #4 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Mick wrote:Steve, pic 43. I presume means replace sump plug washer with new, not new bolt?

Hi Mick
Bolt or washer which ever you can get :thumbsup:
Image

Posted 13 Mar 2015, 01:37 #5 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
raistlin wrote:Superbly logical and informative guide Steve :)

Personally I've always used the vacuum pump method of extracting the old oil. I suspect it doesn't drain the oil 100% but always seems to me to have been sufficiently effective. Clearly saves a lot of time and inconvenience getting the under car parts done.

What is your opinion of that method of extraction please?


Hi Paul.
Nowt wrong with the Pela pump etc method, it just doe's not allow you to check hoses and such while you have the under tray off, so I like to do it the old fashioned way ;)

Posted 13 Mar 2015, 01:40 #6 

User avatar
Trebor
Nice one Steve, that will help owners who maybe havent previously fancied doing it themselves.

Keeping pressure on the sump plug whilst undoing it Is obvious when you think about it but a good tip nevertheless
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Planning is an unnatural process, much better to just get on with things, that way failure comes as a complete surprise instead of being preceeded by a period of worry and doubt

Posted 13 Mar 2015, 08:59 #7 

User avatar
Mick
(Site Admin)
Thanks Steve, top quality work, as always. :)

Posted 13 Mar 2015, 16:17 #8 

User avatar
sewerman
Steve followed the guide to day and it went like clockwork, only comment, I found I needed a small head ratchet on the 16mm socket or it fouled and wouldn't fit properly.

Oh and about half my undertray bolts were missing - Ebay time !
Royal Blue Rover 75 CDT Tourer

Posted 15 Mar 2015, 21:32 #9 

User avatar
Bermudan 75
Arctic wrote:
Mick wrote:Steve, pic 43. I presume means replace sump plug washer with new, not new bolt?

Hi Mick
Bolt or washer which ever you can get :thumbsup:
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I am presently changing my oil and oil filter and need some clarification concerning the sump plug.

My sump plug has a washer that will not come off the plug, can I re-use this and add the white plastic washer as shown in Steve's post above, or just use the original plug and washer?

Cheers

Mike
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Posted 20 Nov 2015, 19:17 #10 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Rover418275 wrote:
Arctic wrote:
Mick wrote:Steve, pic 43. I presume means replace sump plug washer with new, not new bolt?

Hi Mick
Bolt or washer which ever you can get :thumbsup:
Image


I am presently changing my oil and oil filter and need some clarification concerning the sump plug.

My sump plug has a washer that will not come off the plug, can I re-use this and add the white plastic washer as shown in Steve's post above, or just use the original plug and washer?

Cheers

Mike


Hi Mike.
Yes you can use the same sump/plug and washer, just do not over tighten the best method if possible is to use a new washer if one is available, the washer above in the photo is alloy not plastic :) so yer use what you have good luck Arctic

Posted 21 Nov 2015, 00:55 #11 

User avatar
Bermudan 75
Thanks Steve, I will use the original washer, it looks in good nick.

Cheers

Mike
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Posted 21 Nov 2015, 09:03 #12 


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