Hand Brake Compensator a possible alternative? by Borg Warner (Page 2 of 3)


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Arctic
(Trader)
Borg Warner wrote:Hi Steve

Wasn't able to do anything this weekend, spent most of it at hospital with my wife as she's having Chemo' therapy following breast cancer earlier this year. The side effects of the Chemo' are causing her some problems so she was admitted Friday night and came home yesterday.

I've got some ideas and when things have calmed down a little more I'll give it a go and post some photo's.

Gary M.

PS Never say never.


Hi Gary.
So sorry to hear about your wife, I hope you do not think I was putting pressure on you to see how you were going to fit it, as I wasn't just being interested.

Family commitments always come first in fact if we think about it we are trying to fix something that as already been fixed ;) and only giving people another option should they wish to try it or go down that road.

PS hope your wife feels a little better soon cheers Arctic.

Posted 29 Jun 2015, 14:32 #21 

User avatar
Borg Warner
Arctic wrote:
Borg Warner wrote:Hi Steve

Wasn't able to do anything this weekend, spent most of it at hospital with my wife as she's having Chemo' therapy following breast cancer earlier this year. The side effects of the Chemo' are causing her some problems so she was admitted Friday night and came home yesterday.

I've got some ideas and when things have calmed down a little more I'll give it a go and post some photo's.

Gary M.

PS Never say never.


Hi Gary.
So sorry to hear about your wife, I hope you do not think I was putting pressure on you to see how you were going to fit it, as I wasn't just being interested.

Family commitments always come first in fact if we think about it we are trying to fix something that as already been fixed ;) and only giving people another option should they wish to try it or go down that road.

PS hope your wife feels a little better soon cheers Arctic.



Hi Steve.

Absolutely not, in fact it would take my mind of things as while I'm thinking about this I'm not thinking about her illness/treatment; so it's fine. Tough old battle cancer, side effects of the Chemo' can be pretty dramatic. She's on her third session of 6 and they tweak it depending on the symptoms. Her first was quite bad, so they turned it down for the second and that was good. This one they tweaked a bit more and it's knocked her for six. Hopefully the next will bear more resemblance to the second so we can carry on as normal.

Take care

Gary and Sandra

Posted 29 Jun 2015, 16:19 #22 

User avatar
Borg Warner
Fitted easy peasy lemon squeezee :D :D

Sadly as I was on my own so not able to take the photo's, but it wasn't that much more difficult to be honest. Trick is to push passenger seat forward then feel for the tag holding the cable in place on the mech' with the right hand through where rear console is raised. From the left hand side push a flat bladed screwdriver on to it and bend it down. Remove the adjusting nut push the threaded part of the adjuster through the locating hole, with a Philips or similar screw driver push down through the hole and just tap it out. Feed the new one thorough and just guide it into the locating hole. Tricky bit was getting the tag bent back. Again use a flat bladed screwdriver and work it back into position, I really needed a hand with this as you need to do it from the passenger side whilst holding the H/B, got it back though.

I had five washers on mine, I need to adjust at the wheels as I seem to have too much thread showing, but that's for another day.

Would be happy to give somebody a hand and take photo's, it's a third way and I am happy with it.

Gary M.

Posted 30 Jun 2015, 17:32 #23 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Borg Warner wrote:Fitted easy peasy lemon squeezee :D :D

Sadly as I was on my own so not able to take the photo's, but it wasn't that much more difficult to be honest. Trick is to push passenger seat forward then feel for the tag holding the cable in place on the mech' with the right hand through where rear console is raised. From the left hand side push a flat bladed screwdriver on to it and bend it down. Remove the adjusting nut push the threaded part of the adjuster through the locating hole, with a Philips or similar screw driver push down through the hole and just tap it out. Feed the new one thorough and just guide it into the locating hole. Tricky bit was getting the tag bent back. Again use a flat bladed screwdriver and work it back into position, I really needed a hand with this as you need to do it from the passenger side whilst holding the H/B[/quote
]



Hi Gary.
Exactly the way I did it last Friday night at the nano meet but because the chap whom was helping pulled the old cable to far backwards it got stuck in the channel and it ended up taking me 90 minutes to sort out, i found the tag easy to locate and bend forward and back i have a special tool for it, as you say an alternative but I will stick to the 20 minutes it takes me to fit the SSC one ;) I have to agree also it is a two man job otherwise you will struggle, good piece of kit though no doubt about it cheers Arctic.

Posted 30 Jun 2015, 21:13 #24 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Ordered and obtained a few more just in case I am asked for one at the nano, it should keep the owner occupied for a couple of hours fitting it, with supervision of cause :lol: I do not intend to get caught up on fitting these at the nano as it is already really limited due to being busy, the time just fly's by when your having fun.

Before the mod on the mod
Image


After with the belt and braces mod
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And the ones not to buy as they are a little short.
Image

Posted 09 Jul 2015, 23:49 #25 

User avatar
Borg Warner
Bottom one's interesting Steve, is it off a R53?

Gary M.

Posted 10 Jul 2015, 08:06 #26 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Borg Warner wrote:Bottom one's interesting Steve, is it off a R53?

Gary M.


HI Gary.
I presume it is/was but it was amongst the 10 I purchased also the handbrake lever was different, I think it maybe one of those we talked about which the lever was failing ? really sub standard to the original R53 lever as you can see from these pics below.

Image

Image

Posted 10 Jul 2015, 09:00 #27 

User avatar
Borg Warner
You might be right there mate.

Gary M.

Posted 10 Jul 2015, 14:25 #28 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Here you go to add to Gary's take on fitting the R53 ( pic heavy.)

Handbrake modification (Alternative )

About a week to 12 days ago I got talking to Gary (Borg Warner) about a an alternative option for the handbrake mod, using a Mini R53 cable and equaliser.

He had been reading through the handbrake mod's and googled handbrake cables etc and it threw up the above Mini cable etc, I had in the past looked at this but did not follow it through the reason being that you have to 99.9% of the time have to purchase the whole unit handbrake lever cable and equaliser.

These can be bought either from the bay, second hand or new links will be posted at the end of the thread.

We both agreed that it would work I must say that Gary was more enthusiastic about it than me, because even though he or myself had not fitted one I knew from past experience when a cable had broken on a members car how fiddly a job it was to change the cable.

With this modification both the cable and equaliser as to be used if we could have just used the equaliser part it would have been so much easier, I fitted one last Friday evening 26th at the nano meet while doing that one I hit a snag the cable became stuck due to pulling it to hard therefore wedging it, this then became a task in it's self to remove.

A couple of days ago Gary ( Borg Warner) fitted his and he as informed me his went quite well but he did not have time to take photo's, therefore today I decided to have another go on my MGZT my finding and photo's are below enjoy.

Comparison to the SSC & Original stretched compensator.

1a
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2b
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3c
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4d
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Make sure if you purchase one it as the rubber O-ring in this photo.
5e
Image

(Handbrake Alternative mod using a Mini R53 cable & Equaliser) how to.

Tools you will need in my opinion to complete this modification below Fig 1
long reach socket 13mm, a long posi drive screw driver or an l shaped small socket, Stanley knife, 10 mm ratchet spanner, three piece's of wood one with a Vcut out 9" and two 11"-12" long.

Image1

Tools for the front work on the handbrake adjuster. Fig 2
Image2

Tools for the rear work on the compensator part. Fig 3
Image3

Extra long flat blade screw driver this is used to bend over the tag later in the how to. Fig 4
Image4

Also a medium pry bar which came in handy Fig 5
Image5

Ok lets start first remove the handbrake lever cover Fig 6/7/8/9
Image6

Always start at the top nearest to the arm rest as this will stop you breaking the front tag on the lever cover.
Image7

Twist the handle and remove
Image8

Image9

Now we have the handbrake gaiter removed you can move the seats forward and as low as they will go Fig10/11
Image10

Driver seat will go lower than the passenger one.
Image11

With the seats forward and low you can access the two screws either side of the console remove them Fig 12/14
Image12

Image14

Now the screws are removed from the side of the console we can turn our attention to the front adjuster nut this to as to be removed try not to drop it into the console. Fig 15
Image15

Use the long reach 13 mm socket to remove the nut Fig 16
Image16

Slowly pull out the socket with the nut in the end Fig 18/19

Image18

With the front adjuster nut removed put it somewhere safe Fig 19

Image19

You can now make a start on the rear of the car take out the ash tray to access the two 10mm bolts holding the rear of the console down Fig 20/21
Image20

Image21

Using the 10mm ratchet spanner remove the two bolts Fig 22/23
Image22

Image23

Next remove the carpet kicker covers passenger side is pushed towards the front of the car Fig 24
Image24

Then lift it off the clips sometimes these can break so you may have to use new ones when re-fitting Fig 25
Image25

Drivers side you push toward the back of the car Fig 26
Image26

Now pull up the door rubbers a little so the carpet can be lifted later do both sides Fig 27
Image27

At the same time unclip the side panel only pop it out a little no need to go mad Fig 28/29
Image28

Image29

Once you have both sides unclipped you can tease the carpet from under there up to the seat belt anchor Fig 30/31
Image30

Image31

Our next move is to lift the corners of the seat to release the carpet from it's two lugs underneath Fig 32
Image32

Again no need to pull hard the seat will just pop up and reveal the lug holding the carpet in place Fig 33
Image33

Lift the carpet off the lug and leave it out side of the seat Fig 34
Image34

Same procedure the other side of the car Fig 35
Image35

The carpet should now look like this in the pic below Fig 36
Image36

We are now at the stage where we can lift the back of the console using the piece of wood with the V cut into it Fig 38

Image38

With the console lifted up it will help with access later to remove the old compensator ready for the R53 Fig 39
Image39

While the console is lifted use the Stanley knife to cut the little piece of carpet under the rear of it, some will say you do not need to do this, but believe me it helps when lifting the carpet to do the extraction of the old compensator and inserting the new R53 one Fig 40
Image40

With carpet cut you can see from the pic's below it helps to get that little bit of access to the compensator and also remove the front part of the cable Fig 41/43
Image41

You can just see the little black clip you have to remove before the front cable will release from the front of the compensator
Image43

Now comes the part most do not like as they struggle with the carpet, I say no just use the two pieces of 11"-12" of wood to hold the carpet back a great help if you are doing this job on your own Fig 44/45/
Image44

Image45

Now that the carpets are lifted you can now remove the three torx 25 bolts holding the cover over the compensator. Fig 47/48
Image47

Image48

Lift the cover off this will reveal the compensator below Fig 49
Image49

Release the two rear cable from the compensator Fig 50
Image50

Right we now need to go back to the front of the car note I am always working from the passenger side of the car as this is the best access to all the parts you need to get to.

There is a little tag holding the cable in it's channel on the lever, this must be pushed backwards so the cable can be released for changing over to the Mini R53 cable lift the side of the console carefully so no damaged can be done,to access the lug which is hard to see at first Fig 51
Image51

As you can see I used the pry bar for this as it gave good leverage hopefully you can make out the lug/pin that need to be pushed back Fig 52

Image52

With the little peg pushed backwards I then pulled the cable through to the front of the console, Gary may have done this different but I found this to be the best way for me Fig

Image53

I then tapped the cable out slowly while pulling the cable at the same time, this then released the cable from the front lever Fig 54/55
Image54

Image55

With the cable removed I then feed the new Mini R53 cable in from the rear of the console through to the front making sure the cable was the right side of the lug ie cable was in front of the lug as you looked at it, Fig 56/57
Image56

Image57

The cable now needs to be feed into the square hole from below this is the tricky and fiddly, it can take a few tries,it is a lot easier if some can push the cable forward for from the rear of the console at this time save having to reach over and do it your self, Fig 58
Image58

With your hand inside the front of the console guide the cable through the square aperture of the lever Fig 59
Image59

Now you have the cable through fit the adjuster front nut flush with the thread Fig 60/61
Image60

Image61

The handbrake lever can now be lowered ready to fit the rear cables Fig 62
Image62

Fit the rear cables Fig 63/64
Image63

Image64

With the rear cable fitted into the equaliser, the rear compensator cover and carpets can be reinstated Fig 65
Image65

Before removing the V piece of wood and dropping the rear of the console do not forget to bend the little peg back that holds the cable in it's channel on the handbrake lever, once you have done that all carpets can be fitted back as they should be Fig 66
Image66

Now that the rear console and carpets are back in place re-fit the side console screws Fig 67/68
Image67

Image68

Remember you will need to adjust at the rear wheels through the wheel bolt hole, I did not have to do this as mine were already adjusted Fig 69
Image69

Once you have adjusted at the rear wheels you can then and only then adjust at front cable, I adjusted mine to 20mm as these Mini R53 cable & equalisers are a bit tighter therefore giving you an extra 5mm at the front thread well in my case anyway Fig 70
Image70

Refit the handbrake gaiter and the job is complete Fig 71
Image71



The modification is not as quick as fitting the SSC, as there is more work involved but the out come is the same a nice adjusted handbrake on two /three clicks therefore an alternative to the Stainless Steel Compensator.

Hopefully this will help members should they wish to go down this road, the R53 as I have named it can be purchased either second hand from the bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Mini-Coop ... 3aac25df04

Or from the link Gary supplied from another channel and post on here.
http://www.bmminiparts.com/PartDetails. ... 5FBDB34A3C

Enjoy and if I can answer any questions on these I will do so, but I think I may have covered it all, it is a great bit of kit and in my opinion should have been what Rover used in the first place cheers Arctic.

PS the SSC is still available and always will be to members
http://forums.75-zt.com/viewtopic.php?f=105&t=3263

Posted 15 Jul 2015, 14:59 #29 

Last edited by Arctic on 25 Sep 2016, 00:36, edited 8 times in total.


pip
Hello I know its been a while but as there been any feedback on this way of doing it ? are they lasting ?
thanks for any reply

Posted 13 May 2016, 18:46 #30 


PaulT
I fitted one of these but, having bent the tab back the cable would not come out. The result was that I removed the centre console storage box, removed the handbrake lever (2 screws through where the box was and a slight cut of the carpet on the passenger side - covered by the console - and remove the side screw) and changed the cable.
Paul

That apart Mrs Lincoln, did you enjoy the play

Image

Posted 13 May 2016, 20:12 #31 

User avatar
Borg Warner
Put mine on August of last year, holds on 3 clicks, not had to adjust it, fled through the MOT back in February; so good.

Gary M.

Posted 13 May 2016, 20:46 #32 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Fitted 3 now including my own great piece of kit, as we have said already Rover should of used this compensator from the start, like Gary i adjusted once only when fitted and as above flew through the mot January, still takes longer than the SSC to fit though, but I am sure I will bring the time down as more are fitted

Posted 13 May 2016, 23:02 #33 

Last edited by Arctic on 29 Jul 2016, 23:34, edited 1 time in total.


PaulT
Was the Rover one out of the BMW parts bin or did they design it all by themselves? With the production span it must have been fed back by dealers that there was a problem which was ignored.
Paul

That apart Mrs Lincoln, did you enjoy the play

Image

Posted 14 May 2016, 08:20 #34 


pip
Thanks for the update lads

Posted 14 May 2016, 15:27 #35 

User avatar
Borg Warner
PaulT wrote:Was the Rover one out of the BMW parts bin or did they design it all by themselves? With the production span it must have been fed back by dealers that there was a problem which was ignored.


At a guess I don't think it would have been flagged up as such. The cynic in me believes that it was designed that way to extract money from hapless owners? With the production timsescale of around 6 years owners would have been unaware as they would have been "adjusted" until it failed it's MOT, then sold a new replacement at of course garage rates? Besides it was possible to get a replacement for sometime along with an access panel to ease replacement.

When I got hold of the Bini H/B and compared it to the 75/ZT the similarity was remarkable, I reckon the designers sat side by side - or it was even the same bloke.

Gary M.

Posted 14 May 2016, 19:56 #36 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Borg Warner wrote:
PaulT wrote:Was the Rover one out of the BMW parts bin or did they design it all by themselves? With the production span it must have been fed back by dealers that there was a problem which was ignored.


At a guess I don't think it would have been flagged up as such. The cynic in me believes that it was designed that way to extract money from hapless owners? With the production timsescale of around 6 years owners would have been unaware as they would have been "adjusted" until it failed it's MOT, then sold a new replacement at of course garage rates? Besides it was possible to get a replacement for sometime along with an access panel to ease replacement.

When I got hold of the Bini H/B and compared it to the 75/ZT the similarity was remarkable, I reckon the designers sat side by side - or it was even the same bloke.


Gary
I could quite believe that, and maybe thinking at the time R40 customer is most likely to pay for the work needed to be carried out to replace such an item, rather than a mini owner not trying to disrespect anyone whom bought a Mini new though.

Gary M.

Posted 15 May 2016, 01:13 #37 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
One year on and still performing perfect, I have recently purchased some more of these as they becoming more popular, and are easier to fit if you have your seats out for any reason.

Posted 29 Jul 2016, 23:31 #38 

User avatar
Duncan
Regarding the design. It won't have been designed to need replacement. There will be something we don't know about that made them design it that way. It may have been initial cost in that it was cheaper to make it like that but it doesn't look cheap to make.

Regarding the designer. Many of the team were the same between R40 and R50. It was just the next project along and shared many parts too. However remember that many parts are designed by tier 1 suppliers. I would expect the braking system supplier to have done the parking brake too including the cables and lever though I might be wrong.
Image

Posted 30 Jul 2016, 06:27 #39 

User avatar
Borg Warner
One of those unsolved mysteries as to the reason of its design and use. Mine's still good too, almost 12 months down the road. Strange though people are still looking for alternative solutions despite there being three really good ones; a jubilee clip is on the list now.....

Gary M.

Posted 30 Jul 2016, 07:36 #40 


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