75ZT CommunityA social community of enthusiasts, owners, appreciators and collectors. With expert knowledge of all things from MG to Rover and beyond.2010-10-12T21:12:25+00:00https://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/feed.php?f=27&t=2074&mode2010-10-12T21:12:25+00:002010-10-12T21:12:25+00:00https://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=2074&p=18636#p18636How much hassle was involved in replacing it ?, was it doable with just the door card off?
Cheers,
ceb
]]>2010-10-12T19:29:48+00:002010-10-12T19:29:48+00:00https://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=2074&p=18629#p18629 Not serviceable, as they are riveted together.
The replacement suffers the same symptoms, and the same as yours. Doesn't work for a couple of times, then starts working OK. Keeps going until it's left for a few days.
]]>2010-10-09T20:47:53+00:002010-10-09T20:47:53+00:00https://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=2074&p=18469#p18469 The passenger rear didn't work work when I first got it, but does now.
So might be worth just waiting a while to see if it sorts itself??
]]>2010-10-09T14:02:15+00:002010-10-09T14:02:15+00:00https://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=2074&p=18452#p18452
]]>2010-10-09T13:45:07+00:002010-10-09T13:45:07+00:00https://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=2074&p=18450#p18450The drivers door takes three or four blips to unlock (all other doors fine).
Had the door card off and gave it a good spray with WD40 and silicone spray and cleared a bit of the sound material from around the button area etc. but to no avail. So is this a mechanism replacement or could it be a supply/ECU issue? If it's a replacement is this doable with just the door card off as a one man job?