Fbh - again... by BADLAD

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BADLAD
Hi all, sorry to go over a topic that has been covered so much.
I have retro fitted a heater to my newly acquired zt-t. I bought it off eBay and although it looks pretty good, I can't be sure that it works. It's not the 232 model, but the other one.
The unit was quite straightforward to fit thanks to all of the tutorials - all of the wiring and fuel lines were there already. I have pushed some diesel through the fuel line to the engine bay and hopefully got some in the pump by using a syringe.
Next step was to test the unit, which I have tried to do by earthing pin 3 as suggested. The water pump runs briefly and the combustion fan starts up but the thing shuts down after a minute or so. Also, I don't hear the doser pump clicking at any point.
I bought a brand new doser pump from best of British so I know that THAT'S ok.
So, firstly, should I keep pin 3 earthed throughout the test, or is it just a momentary thing?
Secondly, do I just need to pull the fuse to reset a lockout, or does the engine need to be running before I pull the fuse?

Finally, unless I have made a mistake, does everyone think that the circuit board could be fried (no doser pump running)?

Thanks for your time folks,

Ian.

Posted 10 Jul 2011, 20:31 #1 

User avatar
JohnDotCom
I don't know enough about the FBH (Fuel burning heater.) but can confirm the PCBs are often troublesome and as you say can often be fried.

Sure someone with more insight on these will be along shortly.
John

"My lovely car now sold onto a very happy new owner.
I still love this marque and I will still be around, preferred selling to breaking, as a great runner and performer"

Posted 10 Jul 2011, 21:37 #2 

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Duncan
You have to keep the pin earthed for the whole time. Only remove the earth when you want the heater to stop.

To reset, just pull the fues and leave it for a few seconds.

The PCBs can be a problem, usually if the 6 way connector was connected before, or disconnected after the 2 pin one.
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Posted 11 Jul 2011, 07:02 #3 

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James.uk
FrenchMike has Done a very comprehensive writeup on testing these units, it is a "must read"..

The PCB (Printed Circuit Board)'s are kaputt after about 5 years due to chemical damage from the gunge they use, it kills the lil resistors..

You really need to get the PCB sorted before you waste time and money replacing other parts...
...

Posted 11 Jul 2011, 18:04 #4 


BADLAD
Thanks for the replies lads. Thanks to James last comment, I found French mikes pcb repair info. That's just what I was looking for! It will save me a long hard trouble shooting session hopefully.
I have got the parts and will post of my success or failure when I get the
Job done.

Cheers!
Ian.

Posted 13 Jul 2011, 11:31 #5 


BADLAD
Update to previous post...

It lives!

Found the circuit board info from French mike as suggested, got some resistors and fitted the one that had blown in my unit - checks out ok! Had it running for 5 mins on the car this afternoon.

This forum rocks! Great info all in one place and a helpful bunch of people.

Thanks to all who have made it possible.

Ian

Posted 13 Jul 2011, 22:28 #6 

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Arctic
(Trader)
Hi Ian
dont forget the other hose you still have to join, and also a fob to run FBH from as if i remember you have no timer in the armrest,
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Posted 18 Jul 2011, 01:11 #7 

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Duncan
You need a receiver as well as a fob. It's nice to have that one for originality, but the receiver is a lot of money and you could use a third party remote and receiver for a lot less money.
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Posted 18 Jul 2011, 19:05 #8 

User avatar
Arctic
(Trader)
Hi Duncan.
Of cause because the OP has retro fitted a heater he would not have the receiver mind i have had mine now for 8 months and still not tried it :em: :confused: dont know why. Ian was saying something about he had to fit the pipe to a filter i think, he may well come on and let us know. Arctic.

Posted 18 Jul 2011, 21:22 #9 

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raistlin
You could always consider fitting one of the parking heater modules :)
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

Click the image to go to Nano-Meet Website
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Posted 18 Jul 2011, 21:24 #10 

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Duncan
Yes, he was missing the air intake filter, and has fitted a short length of hose instead.

He could do with the proper thing to prevent any large debris getting in and damaging the fan, and to reduce the noise.
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Posted 19 Jul 2011, 06:59 #11 


BADLAD
Sorry to revive an old thread, but, haven't been on here for a while - busy with other stuff, but I've just acquired another fbh which I'm hoping will have a filter on it. There were no pictures, but, I got it for a bargain price off eBay and I haven't collected it yet. I hope to see you all at the September nano - I'll have to book a couple of days off work just to attend for one day, but it was so good in July, I really want to attend again.
I could always help arctic do that little job for you Duncan! If you bring the car instead of the v6... I'd certainly be glad to help you both in any way I can!

Have a good one,

Ian.

Posted 03 Aug 2011, 20:16 #12 

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James.uk
I have a working remote and receiver for my FBH made by "Starman" so clearly they can be produced by individuals.. :)
...

Posted 03 Aug 2011, 23:36 #13 

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Duncan
James.uk wrote:I have a working remote and receiver for my FBH made by "Starman" so clearly they can be produced by individuals.. :)
...

Yes. Paul (Raistlin) has a mod that can control the FBH as well.

Anything is possible, but what I was suggesting was that it's hard to use the OEM fob without the OEM receiver. Not impossible, just not worth the hassle. More importantly, a few people have thought you need only the remote fob and it will work. This is not the case.
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Posted 04 Aug 2011, 12:14 #14 


BADLAD
I have another question for Paul (raistlin). I have finally got the am ec02 b board apparently working. I had a dry joint on the input tranny q1 which was giving me grief.
Here goes, I power up the board and stick 12v onto j2 pin 1 for about 3 seconds. I get relay 1 switching straight away and I get j2 pin 2 going to ground which seems to be right.
Then after about 5 mins, i get relay 2 switching which shorts out pins 1 & 2 on j4 . Pins 1 & 2 on j3 don't short however. Is this correct?
After about 30 mins I lose the earth from j2 pin 2 ( fbh turns off), I think that that's ok.
So really, I think it's looking good, but I'm unsure about the white relay ( relay 2 ) switching only one pair of contacts. Does it sound right to you?

Cheers,
Ian

Edit: hmm, just had another look and it switches differently to what I initially thought. I think it is probably ready to go! Your thoughts are always welcome though.

Posted 09 Oct 2011, 14:55 #15 

User avatar
raistlin
Is this V1 or V2 board Ian? (V2 is able to run summer ventilation, V1 is not)

Also, based upon what you've said I suspect you'd benefit from the ISIS diagram of whichever module you have.

Have you the ability to read ISIS diagrams Ian or do I need to do a JPG?

Also, PM me your e-mail address so I can send either the ISIS diagram or a JPG to you.

Can I recommend that you don't go any further until you have the appropriate diagram?
Paul

Cogito ergo sum... maybe?

Click the image to go to Nano-Meet Website
Image

Posted 09 Oct 2011, 15:18 #16 


BADLAD
Hi Paul, pm sent.
With respect to the summer setting, I could just put a toggle switch in line with the fbh output to pin 3 of the webasto I think. Simply close the switch for winter and open it for summer. There would be a 5 minute delay in starting the blower, but the heater would not fire up if pin 3 was not grounded would it not?
I think I'll add a switch if you agree with my reasoning.

Hopefully it's a job for the nano - in-between fitting handbrake mods with arctic that is! It's going to be a busy day.

Ian.

Posted 09 Oct 2011, 16:51 #17 


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