75ZT Community

That Steve(Arctic) is an absolute gem !

Hi Paul.
Glad to help here is the fleabay link i get mine from i have 10 of these teardrop lower engine mounts which i was thinking of fitting powerflex bushes to for the nano's 5 yellow (Petrol) and 5 Red (Diesel) i will have to see as we know we had a troll person at the last meet moaning he had to pay for the parts for the handbrake compensator what an idiot he turned out to be anyways below is also the link i get mine from, and afew pics of the part its self Arctic.

Diesel version
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120998119145? ... 593wt_1320

We now use the modified Yellow bush from powerflex because of our findings they made this change so reprting back does make a difference

Petrol version
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110985260929? ... 886wt_1320

These are the few pics i have of the lower engine mounts i have only once seen the small bush perished and falling apart.
The one below petrol was from Domincs MG ZT 2.5 190
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In this pic you can see the small bush which is perished.
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Cheers Arctic.

Something to add to this that we discovered today.

If you're doing the job on a car with auto transmission, make sure it's in Neutral, not Park

Ooo that was the easiest one I've never changed

nice one Steve

takestock wrote:Ooo that was the easiest one I've never changed

nice one Steve

Hi Dave
These are quite easy to change but a bit of advise for those doing it the first time and you have an Auto it must be in Neutral or you will not be able to move the engine to line the bolts back up and also struggle to undo the bolts first off, believe me i know Arctic

" we had a troll person at the last meet moaning he had to pay for the parts for the handbrake compensator what an idiot he turned out to be "

Steve, he has surfaced again since the last meet and receiving a ban on the club forum, posting up on the Nano meet attendance for the next September meet and saying he will leave before the meal, absolutely hilarious not ! Lyndon has removed the post i believe

Trebor wrote:" we had a troll person at the last meet moaning he had to pay for the parts for the handbrake compensator what an idiot he turned out to be "

Steve, he has surfaced again since the last meet and receiving a ban on the club forum, posting up on the Nano meet attendance for the next September meet and saying he will leave before the meal, absolutely hilarious not ! Lyndon has removed the post i believe

Hes right about that he will certainly be leaving before the meal. He will be leaving as soon as hes arrived if he did arrive as Gail and Bruno are gate keepers in september and she is already furious about him and would get a little before being escorted politely from the venue Niffty might even want a word in his egg shell as well doubt hed be able to hear though as they would be like cauliflowers after an ear bashing from my dearest Arctic

Paul, you should have remembered about the transmission in Park. Not that I remembered, of course. We had exactly the same problem when we did my Thermostat, the engine mounting wouldn't go back on.

Good point Duncan

My V6 had the large end split but no all the way through. So movement was increased, but not too badly. I have heard of people who had manual gearchange cables ripped out because of the excessive movement.

So how do you tell if these componants need changing?

Usually, excessive engine vibration, otherwise visual inspection.

Yes, what Mick said. If you look at Steves photos, you can see how the rubber splits. If you see similar splits in yours, change them.

To be fair, you couldn't even see the splits in mine until it was off the car and in the light but it still made a tremendous difference when the powerflex one was fitted.

raistlin wrote:To be fair, you couldn't even see the splits in mine until it was off the car and in the light but it still made a tremendous difference when the powerflex one was fitted.

Hi Paul.
Yes i still have your lower engine mount have not taken the middle out yet, will try and photo the splits which were very slight indeed but as Paul says still were troublesome, so best to change i would say, will be doing mne sometime today on both cars weather they need doing or not just gives me piece of mind Arctic.

Paul.
managed to take a couple of pics of your lower engine mount as you say you can not really see the cracks but underload as with the engine you can imagine what is happening see below.

If you look careful left of letter T you can see the crack and one directly above onthe inner curve bend.
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Under stress but not as much which engine would do when running and also changing gear.
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The crack goes through to the other side also i bet most R75 out there which have 65000 plus on them have this problem.
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Thats why my are being changed asap sometime this week if i can Arctic.

Well decided to change my lower engine mount today and do an oil change decided this when i was on my way back home from shopping at 3.45pm the engine oil would be nice and hot to flow easy and the engine mount is in the same area as the sump nut all 15mm so no sooner as i pulled up at home out come the ramps and shes up ready for the work to be carried out

Here we go car up on the ramps rear wheels chocked handbrake on 16.02 note how long this job takes including taking photo's so its just as easy to remove and check it for wear if you can not see it by torch light from underneath.

Shes up and ready to have undertray removed.Fig 1
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Four fixing bolts at the front of the bumper remove the two outer ones Fig 2
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There are eight other undertray fixing these might be one turn fixings or in my case posidrive remove the six centre ones first, now loosen the two rear and remove slowly then lower the undertray down as you get from under the car the tray will still be held in place by the two front centre bolts you left in earlier, these can now be removed and the undertray slide rearwards and removed from the car.Fig 3-4
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Tray removed note the time 16.09 Fig 4
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Right back under the car armed with your 15mm ratchet spanner you can now see the oval teardrop lower engine mount with two bolts above you Fig
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First release the top bolt if needs be get an extension bar if its to tight but it should move easy Fig 6-7
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loosened nicely but not removed yet Fig 7


With the top bolt now removed undo the bottom smaller bolt Fig 8
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Pull out the bottom bolt and remove the lower engine mount Fig 9
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With the lower eingine mount removed you can check properly for any cracks or tears if any at all no matter how slight change the bush note how the bush is cracked and shows up more under stress which the engine will be doing all the time it is running. Fig 10
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The crack will be on both sides as you can see from Fig 11
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Refit the lower engine mount with the new uprated powerflex bush if you do not have one ready to fit as idid you will have to change the bush first so your time will be longer than mine by about 5 mins note the time 16.17 Fig 12
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Fit top bolts hand tight first Fig 13
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Then line up the bottom holes and fit the small bolt you may have to pull or push the engine which is floating on the uper engine mounts so very easy to move Fig 14
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Tighten up both lower engine mount 15mm bolts an the job is finished all that remains is to re-fit the undertray or in my case do the oil change. Fig 15 (Time 16.20pm from 16.02 total time 18 minutes.
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Arctic.

PS check all other bushes while you are under the car look what i found rear lower wish bone another job to do right away Fig 16-17
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Two years previous in May 2010 both were ok and passed its test Aug 15th 11 and no sign of wear so always check
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Quick link from where i get my powerflex bushes superfast delivery ordered 31/7/2012 arrived 2/8/2012

Diesel Yellow bush
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-MG-Z ... 0716971697

Petrol yellow bush
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230769769385? ... 1439.l2649

Good how-to, Steve.

How is the engine behaving with this new part, is it running as smooth as it would do with the OEM part? Or do you encounter more vibrations, especially when accelerating?

Jürgen wrote:Good how-to, Steve.

How is the engine behaving with this new part, is it running as smooth as it would do with the OEM part? Or do you encounter more vibrations, especially when accelerating?

Hi Jürgen.
i have only drove it a few miles simce fitting and it seems smoother no un-toward vibrations which i was getting with the OEM one i may change all the bushes yet to powerflex cheers Arctic.