75ZT Community

With Tinas arthirtis in her Knees not improving (Not that I thought it would - I am not that daft ) we have discussed the options over Manual and Auto cars. Tina has been told that she will need an operation on at least one of her knees in the not too distant future for replacements. So this has brought us to the conclusion that an Auto may better suit our needs.

So, I am hoping some Auto owners may be able to offer some advice as to what to look for in an Auto car. I have only driven Autos at Work. Never on the Highway.

I don't mind which Engine variant we have, we only use the car for 4 Miles a Day Monday to Friday at the moment as Tina is using the Train to go to University for her Paramedics Course this year. Then there is shopping at the weekends. So our chosen options are 2.5 V6 as well as a 2.0 CDT(i).

I am aware of the general things to look for on the 75, but not the Auto variants. So any advice is greatly appreciated. Also any general hints and tips on Auto ownership is greatly appreciated as we have never owned an Auto before.

Thanks in advance

The main thing is to check it changes smoothly. As a rule the autos are less of a problem because the clutch doesn't go. However they can still fail. Some early ones can get cracked pistons, and broken wires to solenoids aren't unheard of. I believe both cause harsh or no gearchanges so should be easy to spot.

Once you own one, change the fluid for the exact right one. Also bear in mind the economy, even on a diesel, won't be great.

The mileage you are suggesting makes the V6 a viable proposition. I get 28-32 mpg from mine. As Duncan says gear changes should be a smooth as silk. Engine to operating temperature within a mile.
Cons for Diesel, although not many, warm up period may take all of the 4 miles you intend to travel, not much fun in winter and decidedly bad for the engine. I would expect mpg on such short runs to be much the same as the V6.

Go for it mate. I love auto's, (you'd never guess????) Wish I'd had a sports auto rather than the 160T but probably wouldn't swap. The Freelander's a V6 auto and it's so nice to drive in traffic, (although I think it may have a solenoid on the way out, still it seems an easy fix) but 20/gal; gulp.

JDI.

Gary M.

Hadn't spotted the miles per day. V6, without a doubt! You will never recoup the extra cost of a diesel, unless you have to pay for the belts to be done on a V6.

V6 it shall be then, though I was leaning towards a V6 after reading all the positives on here and the other site about them. Went to look at one today on the off chance, turned out to be a dogs dinner. It looked as though it had lived in Water, the slam panel was rusted and barely had any paint left on it, the Boot had ducks living in there and it had more lights than Blackpool showing.

One question though, When stationary, taking the Car through the Gears, should there be any twitching from the Car? What I mean is, I put it into drive from Park and you could feel it "Pull" at the Wheels if that makes sense? It did this on all the Drive Gears. Also the Gear lever felt quiet heavy and tight to move through the Gears, I assume this is not normal? Just trying to get a feel for the Auto box.

Sounds about right for gear changes by the stick. When in gear the car will move forward or backward at 2-3 mph. You always have to hold it on the footbrake when selecting a gear from park or neutral. Same for any auto box.

Mick wrote:Sounds about right for gear changes by the stick. When in gear the car will move forward or backward at 2-3 mph. You always have to hold it on the footbrake when selecting a gear from park or neutral. Same for any auto box.

Thanks Mick. Wasn't too sure, I had my foot on the Brake and the Handbrake engaged, so that would explain the "pull" I felt

I felt so sorry for that V6 today, it looked so uncared for.

I agree with what Mick said. As you move from P to R you would feel the car take up the slack then let it out again when you select N. D would do it again, but then I wouldn't expect any change moving down through 4 - 3 - 2 from D.

To try to explain, the automatic doesn't have a clutch like the manuals. Instead there's a torque convertor. Think of this as a cup of tea with two spoons in it. Stir the tea with one spoon, and the tea moving will tend to move the other spoon. You can hold the second spoon still (like with the car in gear, but your foot on the brake) but the movement of the tea will be pushing it trying to make it move.

So long as the engagement isn't a harsh bang, then it's likely to be OK. But you need to drive through all gears, and with the gearbox warm, to check full operation.

The reason I mention with the box warm, comes down to the torque convertor again. Going back to the teacup, a lot of energy gets wasted stirring up the tea. In an autobox it makes the fluid hot, and is bad for your MPG. So the torque convertor can be locked under the right conditions to avoid this waste. First, the gearbox has to be hot. Until it is, the system allows the torque convertor to churn the oil to help it warm up quickly. Then if you are cruising, it will engage. On mine, a diesel, you can feel torque convertor lockup over 50MPH on a light throttle. It will stay locked up until you drop below 45MPH, or boot the throttle hard enough to make it change down a gear. Once you drive the auto, you will notice how when you take your foot off the gas, the revs drop back down unlike a manual. Once lockup is engaged, the revs don't drop off. It's a bit difficult to describe, but I'm sure when you drive one, you'll see what I mean. Alternatively, get someone to take you out in one.

You'll be able to see how a good setup works as soon as you're ready Carl

Thank You Duncan, I think I understand what you mean. I love the Tea / Spoon analogy (Is that the right word?) very easy to follow

Yes Paul and thank you